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Restaurant Raza, Montreal

Click here for a recap of my picks of all Montreal’s top fine dining & best Montreal’s bistrots.
Also: My 3 and 2 Star Michelin restaurant review web site

Restaurant Raza
Cuisine: Upscale blend of Modern French/Latino fine dining
Addr: 114 Laurier West, Montreal, Qc
Phone: 514.227.8712
Url: http://www.groupemnjr.com/

All meals sampled at Raza Restaurant are gathered in the current article (please find below, the reports of all my dinners at Raza listed in chronological order)

Food rating: Exceptional (10), Excellent (9), Very good (8), Good (7), just Ok (6)

The following is my review of my 4th meal at Raza on February 11th, 2012 20:00 – Dinner @ Raza on this Saturday evening Febr 11th, 2012. As the readers of this blog already know, Raza is my #1 favourite restaurant in Montreal and despite this regrettably tepid reported meal (I don’t review Montreal’s top dining ventures anymore, just re-visiting my favourite restaurants in town and dropping some few updates here), Raza remains my #1 because there’s in this house the basics of what make a restaurant better than its competitors: a Chef with great maturity, pride, common sense, exceptional talent and a better understanding of what a Restaurant should achieve. Naturally, the latter statement will pass as out of context given the report about this meal of Febr 11th, but the previous dinners (they are all reported right below) largely back my assertion. Now, the beauty of my work is that I’ve stayed away from making friends with the restaurant industry, and this leads to the advantage of enjoying experiences that most diners, 99% of the patrons at a restaurant, are experiencing for real. Thus the possibility of enjoying things as they come. No one wants his number #1 choice to fail, alas tonight’s dinner had simply nothing to do with the Raza that has impressed me for so long. It was unfortunate to have experienced this, especially me: when I feel confident to go all the way to raving about a place, it’s usually done with rigorous thinking and backed by solid evidence (level of cooking, consistency, mastery in the depth of flavor combinations, amazement of the taste, etc). Tonight, all those superlatives that do usually define what I have found there were remote souvenirs: a simple braised beef with sparse pieces of veggies could have been better executed at home …(6.5/10), chorizo in a bouillon was just that: sausage in a bouillon..hardly something that excites at a restaurant (5/10), salmon covered by a creamy coconut concoction was ok, shrimps in a revised version of a bisque was pleasant but not on par with the standards that I am used to at Raza (7/10)…let us stop here and politely say that we were miles away from Chef Navarrette Jr’s stunning cooking. Even the service was odd: wine pairing to each of the 7 courses does not mean pairing to just some of the courses… We can see this through different angles: the 3 previous meals were stunning (they are all detailed on this current web page — just scroll down — .and this, I hope, will benefit to some of the apprentice cooks out there: when you have the luck to learn alongside one of world’s best Chefs, Chef Navarrette Jr is definitely one of them: seize that damn opportunity to level UP your cooking!! ). This is the only time that I am disappointed, in 4 occurences. Which is far from being bad. On the other hand, it is clear that next time that I am going to Raza, I’ll talk to Chef Navarrette Jr and make it clear that it is his cooking that I am paying for! Chef Navarrette Jr is a Gentleman who wants to give a chance to his cooks to shine. But that aide he had on this evening cooks food that I am not willing to pay for…………. I’ll go back: it would be stupid to stop myself at the only one slip of all these amazing dinings at Raza. Chef Navarrette Jr can easily cook gustatory marvels comparable to what you will find on most top 2 star Michelin tables out there, but of course, he needs to avoid being surrounded by lesser talented apprentices or else the huge gap in talent between him and those will be felt in a frustrating way by his patrons.

The following is the review of my 3rd meal @ Raza on Saturday October 22nd 2011, 8 PM ->
This is my 3rd visit with my wife here. Raza now offers a surprise tasting menu, left at the discretion of the Chef’s creativity, a trend that is now widely spread around the world. The default surprise menu is the 5 courses at $59. If you ask for it, you can also enjoy a 7 course surprise menu at $70. As on both previous two dinners, we opted for the latter (which I find to be a bargain for the high level of dining that’s offered – We also appreciate the surprise nature of the tasting menu, given how creative Chef Navarrette Jr has always been).

At this visit on Sat Oct 22nd 2011, the latino genius continued to impress with creativity and exciting food that remain leaps ahead of anything to be found in town.

The meal started with a ceviche of mahi mahi (9/10) that had an enjoyable depth of rich taste, the marine freshness of the fish shining through nicely. The quality of the fish being remarkable.

Next was a dish of quail egg, dehydrated mushrooms, squid ink aioli. A dish that shows an impressive level of technical mastery with the mushrooms properly dehydrated and served to an ideal powdery consistency, its taste vivid (we are far from the dehydrated mushrooms that taste nothing: here the fresh taste of the mushroom is retained), the cooking of the quail eggs mastered to precision (perfect runny inside). An exciting dish with multi layers of flavors blending impressively well together. In Montreal top level dining standards, you won’t see anything close to this. Certainly not as expertly composed as this. 10/10

The following course of the tasting menu was a delicious soup of chestnut, tomato confit, chives. The palatable impact is maintained high, with again, exciting flavors that tease the palate, a characteristic of Chef Mario Navarrette Jr’s cuisine 10/10
I had a glass of Chilean Errazuriz Chardonnay Wild Ferment, Casablanca Valley (2010), which complex and rich characteristics balanced harmoniously with the earthy profile of the chestnut soup.

Then came a dish of ‘Braised veal flank, butternut squash gnocchis, parmesan, red wine reduction” – Not one single item was short of palatable excitement (the recurring use of the word ‘excitement’ in my review is intentional for sake of accuracy in describing what attracts me towards the work of this genius, but also for paying justice to the type of cuisine served by Chef Navarrette Jr). Each item of this dish had dazzling taste; mixed together, the succulence reached a rare peak in deliciousness. The display of impressive cooking execution and refinement continued on this dish (the cooking of the gnocchis and the veal was exemplary). 10/10
This was matched to a nicely Merlot Rubini colleccion Crianza (Ica, Peru 2006) which appealing density went thoughtfully well with that dazzling braised veal flank.

Next came a ‘sabayon, blue cheese, pears, apple compote‘. The sabayon had all elements whisked expertly to proper temperature, thickened to ideal consistency, with not one single spotted fault. The blue cheese imparting a welcoming counter-kick of flavor, and the top quality fruity components enhancing perfectly the enticing rich flavor profile of this course. Another dish which intent to impress the palate went beyond the targeted goal. 10/10

This dinner ended with a jar of Chef Navarrette Jr’s take on the theme of ‘nutella’ and ‘banana‘. I am not a fan of nutella and chocolate since I was born and was raised in a tropical environment where chocolate and candies were replaced by pineapple, coconut and mangoes (this naturally explains why great desserts based on those tropical ingredients do benefit from better appreciations from my taste buds), therefore chocolate-based desserts suffer from having to stand out at all cost. But to elevate a combination of such classic elements (banana, nutella) that are already known to deliver delicious taste on their own to newer heights of palatable impact like what I found in this dessert is the kind of achievement that, in my view, defines a GRAND CHEF. I know I gave lower marks in the past to more complex desserts, but that is because they failed to be this delicious. 10/10

CONCLUSION: This looked like a distribution of 10/10, Rfaol! Even the ceviche, which I rated with a 9/10, would be a perfect 10 in most talented hands (9/10 is ‘excellent’ in my rating system. A 10/10 is of benchmark material, which btw, as far as my evaluations of ceviches go, is detained by Chef Navarrette Jr’s ceviches that I have previously sampled).
In facts, it’s just the result of when you pair an endless source of exceptional talent with creativity and a unique palate. That inevitably provides stunning dishes like those. Talent, raw and exceptional talent, makes all the difference: I have seen, many top level Chefs offering ceviches that failed to come as close to half of the excitement found in Chef Navarrette Jr’s. A while back, a top level Chef had cooked something similar to the corn velouté that Chef Navarrette Jr once offered at A Table. My conclusion was that there is Chef Mario Navarrette Jr and then you have the rest. Modern creative cosmopolitan marvels like these will always perfume my sweetest gastronomic souvenirs. So, again and again: another exceptional meal by an exceptional Chef.

PS: I was reading a recent article of Quebec’s top food critic Marie-Claude Lortie on Raza. She loved her meal and holds Raza in high esteem, but wished most of the food would be more spicy, more provocative (as she wrote: more chilly, more spices). I enjoy Madame Lortie for her great sense of culinary analysis (I personally believe that she is in the top 5 of world’s best food journalists and I would bet on her palate to be the most accurate of them all), but here I don’t agree with her: if you put more spices and push the exotical aromas to some extent in the cooking of Chef Navarrette Jr, then you end up with a cuisine that is not Modern Cosmopolitan anymore. The reason it is modern (as in Modern French cuisine, for ie) lies in the fact that its intent is to move away from traditional cooking (spices, strong aromas in the case of Classic Latino cuisine). Also: Chef Navarrette Jr Cuisine is more accurately about a big majority of food items pertaining to Modern French cuisine with latino influences and some Modern interpretations of couple of Latino-based dishes like the ceviche, for ie. And I insist: this Genius deserves a city with better visibility!

The following is the review of my 2nd meal at Raza on AUGUST 14th, 2010 20:00 =>

Restaurant Raza

Cuisine: Upscale blend of Modern French/Latino fine dining
Addr: 114 Laurier West, Montreal, Qc
Phone: 514.227.8712
Url: http://www.groupemnjr.com/
Event: Dinner @ Raza on Saturday August 14th 2010, 8 PM

Food rating: Exceptional (10), Excellent (9), Very good (8), Good (7), just Ok (6)

(You will find the English review, below) – Un génie, le Chef Mario Navarrette Jr. Personellement, je le considère comme étant le meilleur Chef Montréalais, et largement dans le top des meilleurs Chefs de cuisine moderne cosmopolitaine à travers le monde. Du calibre d’un deux étoiles Michelin, facilement. Souvent, ca frise le calibre d’un 3 étoiles Michelin coté talent culinaire. Il mérite de briller sous des cieux plus cléments: Shanghai? Dubai? Tokyo?

This dinner was primarily a romantic tete à tete with my sweet half. I still brought my camera, though. For Jannice, it is the opportunity to taste the food of a Chef largely praised by her food enthusiast of a husband, and here, we will get to taste what I’m truly praising: when you go to Raza, Chef Mario Navarrette Jr is there, cooking for real. Even more important to me: he is not slowing down with his creativity.

Jannice and I went for the grand fiesta: the 7 service tasting menu. I love giving carte blanche to highly talented Chefs: you are inventive, go ahead..unleash it!

The night started off with great music (whoever thought about that collection of great latin american and spanish music that was playing last night has great taste in music. It’s rare that I talk about music played at a restaurant, but what was playing last night added to the festive and tasty meal we were enjoying) and their iconic Pisco sour cocktail:

Followed by:

Course #1 Black kingfish (Cobia) ceviche, bouillon of ginger, sweet potato purée – Excellent quality of fresh fish marinated in a delicate and nicely balanced acidic based jus that brought perfect moisture to the flesh. Top marks to the technique of marinating that’s behind this ceviche: expertly precise. The gingery taste was well thought and that scoop of potato purée that you see atop the fish paired surprisingly well with the light gingery broth. 8.5/10

Course #2: Poached shrimps, sauce seco, parmigiano-reggiano, gnocchi – The shrimp, juicy and of generous portion, kept its freshest flavour and texture.
Jannice — of Italian descent and a severe judge of Italian cuisine — said of Chef Navarrete’s light and delicate gnocchi that ‘it was done with the heart and soul of an Italian grandmother‘.
Impeccable delicious lumps, I must admit .. but knowing well the versatile talent of this Chef, I was not surprised at all. The gnocchi was bathed in a delicious beer-coriander based sauce seco. The cheese added an extra gustatory dimension to this nicely composed dish. 10/10

Course #3: Scallop, risotto of quinoa & butternut squash), caviar – Atop, a plump tasty scallop nicely seared and fully flavored, adorned by some fresh cucumber carpaccio. Underneath, a succulent risotto of quinoa cooked with butternut squash. Mixing the fresh quality of mullet’s caviar to that risotto of quinoa was divine and to add an extra layer of complexity that works really well, the overall was enhanced by a zesty touch of orange reduction. Creative, fun and very pleasing to the palate. A dish that Jannice qualified as a pleasurable sin. 9/10

Course #4: Duck magret, Aji panca chili, green apple carpaccio, cipollini, cherry tomato confit – A short description of this duck magret could go like this ‘the secret here lies in the impeccable quality of this duck” but such statement would be utterly incomplete. It would be more accurate to include the exceptional work of delicious tastes and skilled cooking techniques to the equation. The Panca chili adds a pleasant kick (the pungent taste is present, but in an enjoyable subtle way. Not the hot and over spicy kind of taste ), the green apple bringing a nice acidic balance.The cipollini and cherry tomato were first grade ingredients. Next time, I need to know who are the farmers behind such quality products. An exceptional dish. 10/10

They dimmed the lights at that point, so the next picture did benefit from the flash of my camera and will look slightly different from the previous ones:

Course #5: Filet mignon, chanterelles, squid ink and aioli – That was a stunning piece of top quality Angus AAA meat, expertly seasoned, fork tender and drool-worthy. The earthy and nicely cooked chanterelles tasted great. The soft and creamy potato purée was delightful. 8.5/10

A pre-dessert:

Course #6: Flash-frozen avocado purée, mango sorbet – Few of the best desserts I have enjoyed at the top restaurants of Montreal (and even abroad) could qualify as exceptional. This one is the newest addition to that very selective list. The fresh avocado purée was flash-frozen in an anti-griddle, paving the way to a unique frozen type of texture that made the avocado very enjoyable in mouth. The sweetness of the decadent mango sorbet paired so well with the avocado. Also of high mention: that gelée you see on the side + a savourish snowy-white airy mousse lying beneath. I was so distracted by the enjoyment of the overall dessert that I do not remember what they were made of . This dessert was delicate, brilliantly creative. The taste, exquisite. 9/10

Course #7: Chocolate cake (excellent moist and deliciously rich chocolate cake with a pleasant molten inside consistency ), Sugar cane Ice cream (lovely creamy quality ice cream). The nutella powder that was served along this dessert was a nice touch. 9.5/10

Bottom line: an exceptional meal by an exceptional Chef.
As far as I’m concerned, Chef Navarrette has once more proven to be among the few who truly can take it (the culinary experience) to the next level with outstanding creative cooking skills that translate in food that’s exciting to enjoy.

Excellent mention to the service: efficient and professional.
And this nice wine they served to me is added to my personal favourites, too: The 2005 Bodegas Sierra Cantabria Rioja Crianza.

PROS: Chef Navarrette Jr can easily cook gustatory marvels comparable to what I found on most top 2 star Michelin tables I know. I’d not be surprised that he can go beyond that level

CONS: Chef Navarrette Jr coking deserves a city with better visibility. Dubai? Tokyo?

Off I go!
If you find food of a level of what is offered at XO Le Restaurant/Toque!/Raza/La Porte/LCCP/Bistro Cocagne/ let me know and I’ll be more than interested to give it a shout. Till then, thanks for reading!

The following is the review of my DECEMBER 4TH, 2009 20:00 meal at Raza restaurant =>

Event: Dinner at Restaurant Raza
Friday December 4th 2009 17:30
Addr: 114 Avenue Laurier West (Montreal, QC)
Phone: 514-227-8712
Web site: http://www.restaurantraza.com/
Type of cuisine: Upscale French & Latin American Fusion

Arome’s the food blog: Q&A’s, Guidelines, Ethics, Vision
I purposely chose Raza to cut a bit with my latest trend of upscale French/QC’s dinners (Toque!, Nuances, La Chronique, Le Club Chasse et Peche and so on) . I wanted something a bit different but known for its creativity. A table that’s innovative. Here comes Raza.

Decor: Small, narrow but NOT claustrophobic at all: chairs and tables and well spaced, some along the grey walls (turning into brick walls on the second end of the restaurant’s wall) :

others in the small — and yet well exploited — squarrish area that’s in between the entrance and the bar:

Here’s a picture of their little bar:

The overall is surprisingly elegant, romantic

(well thought dim lightning, and cute little
candles sitting in small blue glasses filled with with corn seeds), cozy, far from being intimidating:

It is also sparsely decorated (couple of paintings here and there + few black and white farmed-photos).
One last immersion in Raza’s dinning room before skipping forward to the food:

Food:
Total cost: $165 (7 course tasting menu with wine pairing + 1 cocktail + 1 Cognac’d coffed)

I asked Francis, my waiter of the evening, for a suggestion of cocktail.
Naturally, the star cocktail of the house is the Peruvian (Chef Navarate has Peruvian origins) Pisco sour cocktail:
Based on the Pisco spirit, a south american brandy made of grapes, Raza’s cocktail contains the expected lime juice, a bit of lemonade and espuma mousse (aka foam) + syrup is here replaced by some fruit sugar. The Pisco sour was without reproach: ideally frothy, it had the enjoyable bitter sour flavour I seek in my ideal Pisco Sour. The potent flavor of the pisco was amazingly well balanced here by the enjoyable citrus touch. I still dream every night over that divine martini-litchi I had at XO, but this Pisco sour was equally seducing.

First came the home made bread:
I remember raving over the bread of Chef De Montigny at La Chronique. Well, Chef De Montigny has some serious competition, right in front of his restaurant (La Chronique and Raza face each other). Actually this one beats Chef De Montigny’s bread because not only this bread is as light, airy, fresh and delicious as the one of La Chronique … but it is more exotic: Chef Navarate bakes his bread with yukon-gold potatoes and his bread oozes of an incredibly fresh-baked aroma. Just devour that bread fast while it’s warm, since you wont wanna miss this beauty in all its warmth and splendeur.
The bread to send all bakers to retirement! 10/10

Next, the wild mushroom soup:
It’s presented in 2 steps. First, a plate filled with flavorful fresh chanterelles, yellow oyster mushrooms (pleurotes jaunes), black truffles:

Then, the waiter poured an unctuous all flavorful mushroom creamy soup in the plate:

The overall soup was impressively intense, powerful and delicate, enjoyably unctuous and richly seasoned. The fresh mushroomy flavor was so addictive on this one. And NO…this mushroom soup is just NOT another mushroom soup. It’s a luxurious version of a muhsroom soup with smart fresh ingredients and an impeccable taste you just cannot compare to most usual good mushroom soups. 10/10
Pairing wine: Tabernero Chincha, Peru 2007. This mixed Sauvignon blanc & Chardonnay has an enjoyable light minerality that reached out fine with the earthiness of the soup. Good choice of wine pairing on this course.

Course #2: Magret de Canard (duck)/Onions Jelly/Mango Vinaigrette
Bathed in a nice mango vinaigrette (flavorful, unique, enjoyably moving in terms of taste ), onions gelée (Wowed!), fresh coriander, the duck magret (breast of a moulard duck) had a perfect melt-in-your-mouth quality, was of impeccable texture and was delicious. This tastebud marvel of a dish was sitting on top of a nice unctuous creamy purée. Here’s a dish with flavors/taste that’s daring in an enjoyable way. The zesty mango vinaigrette enhanced the overall with a memorable enjoyable acidy touch that added punch to an already tender delicious magret. Technically flawless + Tastebud-wise yummy!
Pairing wine: Wayne Gretzky in my wine glass!! Rfaol! It was the 2007 Wayne’s Sauvignon Blanc (Estate Series, from Niagara). Dry and fruity, it was fine on its own. As for the pairing, it complimented the dish just ok.

Course #3: Artic char/Blue Potato purée
cooked to perfection, the fish kept its skin on one side, had a perfect light crispy nicely seared coating and impeccably moist inside. Tender and fresh, it had the freshness of a fish that would have been caught right from the sea (enjoyable marine flavor). But this is not just another piece of well cooked fish: it had a tastebud blowing spicy zesty enjoyable taste that my tastebuds will have hard time forgetting about. My pictures might not suggest it, but may it be the artic char or the previous course of duck magret, those are food items that would hit the world’s best tables on a heartbeat for their impeccable rich daring explosive tastes and flavors (infused beer was a hit on this one, blue potato purée was tasty and elegant, the coriander added a subtle punch) and the subtle genius work that is done with each element of those dishes. Michelin needs to taste this! 10/10
Pairing wine: Pairing wine: Nekeas Navarra Spain 2006. This Chardonnay had a light texture, was, mineral and clean in mouth. Not a daring full bodied wine, but its lightness was what I needed to accompany the fish.

Course #4: Quail/Pumpkin cream/guava-barbecue sauce
Look very homie, hein? Lol. Well, forget about the look, we are far from our next door homie fare here. Our little bird was ideally firm, evenly cooked, nicely seasoned. The prosciutto-wrapped quail was very tasty. As with the previous food items, flavors do blend so well here: the flavorful meat was enhanced by a surprisingly decadent mix of barbecue and guava sauce. Also noteworthy: the succulent pumpkin cream that you can’t miss to spot on the photo. 9/10
Pairing wine: Sancius Ribera del duero Spain 2004. A very nice tempranillo with an enjoyable flavor of cherry that reached out so well with the guava/barbecue sauce and the subtle sweetness of the quail. It is also nicely oaky, long and elegant in mouth, with lots of character. Largely a personal favourite of mine and of perfect companionship to the quail (it was not ideal pairing only to the pumpkin cream).

Course #5: Veal cheeks/Oyster mushrooms/Chorizo/Potato purée
Accompanied by chorizo, oyster mushrooms (pleurotes), a nice potato purée, the veal cheeks were ideally cooked, juicy, had a very pleasant mouthsome (tender and yet firm enough) and a remarkable beautiful brown texture. I had my share of great veal cheeks in Montreal, but this one put them all to rest. Cheeks are the toughest cuts to cook and yet, they were superbly well cooked with such an amazing ease on this dish, a rare achievement at the heighest levels of fine dining. Easily a plate that the best 3 star Michelin tables out there would be proud of! 10/10
Pairing wine: Taymente Huarpé, Argentina 2004
Elegant Malbec that’s as fruity (berry,cherry ) as floral. Smooth in mouth, it was an amazing natural companion to the veal cheeks.

And to round this successful meal off (This meal was of solid 2-star Michelin calibre. To give you an idea, normally a meal with only at least one 10/10 and a 9/10 is already of solid material, largely worth leaving the comfort of home for. A dish with two 10/10 usually pertains to a 1 star Michelin level. There are 4 food items of 10/10 rating on this single meal), two desserts:

Course #6: Lucuma Ice cream, papaya gelée – The papaya gelée was absolutely delicious, not only because I am fanatic about papayas but also for the upfront fresh and natural taste of the fruit that came through remarkably well on this dessert. The ice cream exuded fresh lucuma flavor, had rich tasting and the right thickness. 9/10
Pairing wine: Vendanges tardives Concha y Toro (VTCT). This white sauvignon is a perfect companion to desserts, blessed by an elegant body, long in mouth delicious sweet taste. Intense and full bodied, this wine was really nice on its own and should have worked well with the papaya jelly, but my tastebuds thought otherwise: despite several attempts of fully concentrated tastings between the papaya jelly and the VTCT, the harmony I was trying to find in the marriage between both was not convincing.

Course #7: Chocolate custard, Dulce de Leche ice cream, Corn powder – The addictive dulce de leche ice cream boasted superb flavor intensity. Next to it, a smoky-flavored layer of marshmallow was resting on a tranche of chocolate custard. All components combining thoughtfully with an additional spoonful of corn powder. Inspired! 8.5/10

Service: My waiter, Francis, is a courteous young gentleman. Humble, professional, very attentive, patient and helpful, he has the huge advantage to be very knowledgeable for having worked in lots of restaurants and for having worked as a cook too. He used to work at Navarate other restaurant, Madre and told me that I should not miss the brunch at Madre. I am not into brunches, but took note of this.

PROS: Chef Navarrette Jr can easily cook gustatory marvels comparable to what I found on most top 2 star Michelin tables I know. Of course, he needs to avoid being surrounded by lesser talented apprentices or else the huge gap in talent between him and those will be felt in a frustrating way by his patrons.

CONS: A Chef who deserves a city with better visibility. Dubai? Tokyo?

Find better pictures of this dinner on my Google picasa’s gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/comorosislands/RAZARESTAURANT#

Conclusion: For a long time, Alexandre Loiseau of Bistro Cocagne was alone — in my books — as my choice for this year’s best chef in Montreal. But on the back of this stunning dinner, I have no choice but to declare a draw — up to now — between Navarrete and Loiseau at the very top. If there’s one aspect where both chefs shine better than most it’s exactly where it should: the rise of stunning tastes! In other words, the word BLAND is not part of their vocab ;p Navarete is unarguably a genius of creativity, an architect of stunning refined and researched tastes, and surprisingly he is beating the boys of the block at their own game: remember those upscale bistros or new QC’s/new North American fine dining … well, Navarette has surpassed them and raised the bar very high, albeit of course with a light touch of Latin American’s influence. To each their own, and to me such dinner pertains to what I expect to see at the best Relais & Chateaux or Michelin stared tables (of course, such creative genius of a cook should not be judged over simple fares such as a steak. It would be pure non sense. Let him fly over a tasting menu where his creativity takes all its sense, and then enjoy!).

RAZA
Overall food rating: 10/10 on thefour initial meals, 3/10 on the 5^th meal. Chef Navarrette Jr is simply in my lifetime world’s ten best Chefs ever, and in case you are wondering, this list includes Chef Constant, Pacaud, Maximin, Besson, Piège. The 5^th meal was underwhelming, but he was trying to give his chance to one of his assistants on that evening. The Gentleman wassimply not on par with the standards of his mentor. Four stunning meals of at least 2 star Michelin culinaric perfection, at times easily 3 vs 1 failure only: I prefer this, anytime, over 5 meals over 5 that would have been just good, or safe enough. The latino Genius remains my #1, all type of dining offerings taken into account. The proof is that I went there more oftently than at the other prestigeous big gunners inYUL.
Overall service rating: There’s a standard here and it shows: always professional, charming.
Décor: 8/10 I have always loved Raza’s décor. It’s not grand luxury, but charming, very charming with, the last time I was there (they have made big changes to the décor since) a beautiful wooden floor lending its warmth to the grey tones of the walls. There was something very Zen in that décor.
IMPORTANT: ‘Overallfood rating’ HAS NOTHING TO DO with the arithmectic calculation of all dishes. It is my personal subjective rating of the overall food performance on the specif meal I am sampling only.

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Aromes restaurant reviews (Montreal) – A recap

***This is an anonymous private and personal initiative: I went to all the restaurants that are known to stand out in Montreal (this naturally explains the general positive reviews you will read, and yet ..even the best do sometimes fail as you will realize on a few occasions through your readings) and found for myself. , Enjoy!
***Click on a restaurant’s name to read its full detailed photo text review
***The   * sign signifies that the meal had potential of top level for enjoyment and cooking (worths passing by if you happen to be around), the ** means it was of the highest level one could find in Montreal at this moment ( worth leaving the comfort of home to attend the dinner).
***What to look for in my reviews? I apply myself to be as concise as possible. Even if I do not like a meal, if it is well cooked, for ie, I’ll have to be honest about it. So, you should look at the rating over 10 for my ultimate opinion on a dish, since that rating goes with the level of enjoyment detected by my taste buds (8 is very good food, 9 is excellent and 10 is food that would be hard to improve upon) . Meals of top level are those with at least two 9/10, or one 9/10 and a 10/10. Click here for more on my rating system.
***Last but not least: to maximize your chances of enjoying a good meal, chose to dine on a Friday or Saturday evenings (more likely to get the good Chef working on those evenings), start earlier rather than late (food is fresher). In Montreal, currently, there’s no big change at the upper level of dining (fine dining, top bistro): Chefs Mercuri,JF Belair, Navarrette,Laprise,Loiseau,Lenglet,Belair,Rouyé,Axel/Cloutier,Pelletier, Ferrer, Juneau , Derek, Chef Eric Gonzalez at Auberge Le Saint Gabriel are still the reigning kings of what stands out in Montreal.

My top tier favourite restaurants in Montreal:
XO Le Restaurant (Fine dining, Modern European) **
Restaurant Raza (Fine Dining, Modern Latino/French Fusion) *
Restaurant La Porte (Fine Dining, Modern French) **
Restaurant L’un des Sens (Fine Dining, Modern French/North American) **
Bistro Cocagne (Bistro, North American) **
Le Marly (Fine Dining, North American/French – Closed)**
Kitchen Galerie (Bistro, North American) **
Au cinquième péché (Bistro, Modern French) **
Bouillon Bilk (Bistro, Modern French/Cosmopolitan) **
M sur Masson   (Bistro, North American) *
Kazu (Japanese Bistrot) **
Lawrence (British/Intl Gastro pub)**

Montreal: Sushi-yas, ethnic food, macarons that stood out
+Review of Montreal sushi places that stood out during my latest tour of all major Mtl sushi-yas
+My top 15 best dinners in Montreal & Surroundings
+Montreal major macarons boutiques that stood out
+My top 10 best food items of all my Montreal dinners
+Montreal’s best roasted chicken
+Best Pizza in Montreal
+Montreal ethnic food by Aromes

My Favourite classic French tables in Montreal:
They are those restaurants where I love going back, because classic French cuisine is my favourite food and they do it better than most: Le Bonaparte (all Chefs missing filet mignons, bisque..etc..please pay a visit here ..you will understand what I’m looking for) , Le Margaux, le Mas des Oliviers and Chez La Mère Michel. Had one of those three tables decided to close, I’d be saddened! Simply the best classic French in town! Please never ever let modern trends distract you: you are simply the BEST!

Mtl restaurant reviews by categories:
–Fine dining:
XO(** ), Toque(**)!, La Porte(** ), Club Chasse & Peche (** ), L’auberge Saint-Gabriel (*), Europea (* ), DNA (*), La Chronique( *) , Nuances (* closed for renovation), Restaurant L’inconnu (Closed*), Raza (*),La Maison Boulud (*), Osco!, Renoir, Newtown.
–Bistro:
Bouillon Bilk (**), Bistro Cocagne (** ), Kitchen Galerie (** ), La Montée (** closed), F Bar (*), Comptoir charcuterie & vins (*), Café Sardine (*), Cuisine et Dependance (* closed), Brasserie Central, Mezcla, Hotel Herman , Chez Victoire, Joli moulin (closed), Au Pied de Cochon, Lucille’s oyster dive, Mas Cuisine, Le Quartier General, Le Filet, Le Chien fumant, KG Poisson ,Restaurant Helena, Le Margaux, Hambar, Brasserie Centrale, Kazu, Lawrence, Park , Hotel Herman, Laloux,
–Oriental, Fusion: Jun I (**), Biron (Closed)

Outside of Montreal:
L’Eau a la bouche ** (Perfect 10 on a first dinner there, slightly less impressed by a second dinner, but I could easily name a good dozen of 1 star michelin tables that have not done better than EAB), Poivre Noir ** (they can hit highs pertaining to solid 2 michelin potential), Restaurant L’initiale * ( One of the very few Relais & Chateaux of Eastern Canada: I was not blown away, but the food was skillfully well done and I am sure that a dinner there might fare better), Restaurant Quintessence * in Tremblant (That reported last dinner there was of world class material. I’d say that specific dinner was easily of 1* Michelin potential), Les Zebres * (Val David, a bistro that stood out).

Non-Montreal contents:
My 3-star Michelin website is now available (click on the following picture to access the site):

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Aromes restaurant reviews (Montreal) – A recap

Non-Montreal contents:
My 3-star Michelin website is now available (click on the following picture to access the site):

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Aromes 2009-2010 Top 10 favourite food items in Montreal

XO Le Restaurant’s Free Form Lasagna – It’s being a while since I tried this dish (Oct 10^th 2009), so I do not know how it did evolve. But this one I had on that specificc dinner was one triumph of a 3* Michelin caliber meal over the highest standards of fine dining at any corner of this small planet. Here’s how I did describe it, back then:

Called “Free form lasagna”, this dish — I predict — will quickly become the signature dish of their chef, Michele Mercuri: although, at first glance, it might not look like your typical lasagna, it is packed with all technical goodies of a lasagne: cheese, pasta and so on. But this is a unique luxurious creative version of the lasagna -> as you can see on the picture, it’s more of a “deconstructive” version of it. What the picture wont tell you (and that is why I do predict that this is a signature dish to come) is about the remarquable work that is done in terms of savourishness: from the small tasty chunks of lobster, succulent braided sweetbreads, enjoyable lobster emulsion, fresh tender baby spinash and oh so lovely stracchino cheese….every little element of that dish was a blast in terms of taste. Impeccably delicious. 5/5 and more if I could!

Report of that dinner: http://aromes.xanga.com/714228763/montreals-luxurious-tables-xo-le-restaurant/

What do I think, months later: That specific one dish I had on that evening is still my top #1 dish in Mtl up to now, in the top #5 dish if I include top restaurants that I visited abroad. XO Le Restaurant, along with Toque! are Arome’s top choices for world class fine dining in Montreal at this moment. Currently, easily of solid 2* Michelin caliber based on my two dinners there.

Bistro Cocagne’s Braised Lamb/Risotto – This dish shares my 2009-2010 top #1 meal in Montreal with XO Le Restaurant’s Free Form Lasagna. If I include the top tables that I have tried abroad, it’s in the top #3 ever! Yep, as stunning as that! Bistro Cocagne is a market driven table, so I was a bit sad when I recently found my favourite dish removed from their menu. My description of the dish:

that was a generous portion of fully flavoured, perfectly cooked (awesome braised caramelly textured on the outside, so tender — on the inside — that it would slide off the bone effortlessly). Heavenly! 5/5 for the lamb. So, as those who are used to me already know, I always eat the meat first, then it’s accompaniments separately -> The accompanying risotto was very interesting and refreshingly different from my usual risottos: it had some fresh enjoyable crunchy corn seeds, pieces of carrots, a perfect lite creamy consistency with a subtle enjoyable touch of sweetness (there was also what looked and tasted like slices of tamarind. I think this was sun-dried tomato, but they did really taste like tamarind. Those were a well thought addition to that savourish risotto). The risotto was evenly seasoned with amazing little savourish crunchy grains of rice (looked like arborio rice, to me).

Report of that dinner: http://aromes.xanga.com/711358238/bistro-cocagne-montreal—friday-sept-4th-1800/

What I think months later: Montreal, wake up! Put pressure for this dish to make a comeback! The laws of supply and demand can make this happen. Borrow my palate for free and it should work, Rfaol!

Club Chasse et Peche’s Braised boar/Brussels sprouts/hazelnuts/Caramelized fig – I’ll let my description talk for it: ‘’’’Bathed in a very delicious light and flavorful meaty jus (the juice of the braised boar itself), this course has simply stole the show as my 2009 Mtl’s best main course (along with the Free Form Lasagna I had at XO): with a light amazing tasty crusty coating on the outside (basically a light elegant cheesy coating), perfect browny texture, ideally tender on the inside. This marvel-to-the-tastebud wonder was a genius workout of amazing flavorful meaty taste with accompaniments that were creatively so well thought: the hazelnuts in there were not just another ingredients to try…they were a perfect harmonious addition to the rest of this course. The caramelized fig was pure genius food work: intensely rich and tasty, it was the kind of tastebud amazement marvel that secured for good what I think of this cuisine: one of world’s bests. This, folks, would send even the best tables of the world (El Bulli, Fat Duck) to reflexion. Stunned!

Report of that dinner: http://aromes.xanga.com/716460932/best-tables-of-montreal-le-club-chasse-et-p%C3%AAche/

What I think months later: Forever stunned !!!….if only I could find more of this where I do expect it: at 2,3 Michelin star caliber restaurants. Should I say more?

Chef Mario Navarrete’ s Tuna ceviche, Mango purée – Most of the dishes that this Latino genius has cooked for me, turned out impressive. I picked one of them, one that is of the next dimension. This dish is a showcase of precision and exceptional skills. Why? Because in the hands of an average cook, a mango purée is the ticket to overwhelm anything that it is mixed with. In the hands of a genius cook like Chef Navarrete, it is a revelation. The purée, of outstanding light consistency and delicious taste, was of ideal combination with that fresh morsel of tuna (here again, a lot of brilliant work in balancing well the peppery/spicy/acidic marinated taste of the tuna ceviche). Genius work to let each ingredient oozing in their pristine purity and yet complementing themselves. This is easily of solid 2 to 3 Michelin star caliber.

Report of the meal: http://aromes.xanga.com/730124457/-the-new-restaurant-of-chef-mario-navarrete-jr-a-table–montreal/

What I think, weeks later: Speechless! Looking forward to more of the innovative cooking of Super Mario!

Chef Martin Juneau’s Butternut squash velouté, Chorizo – Oh my Lord! More of this overload of amazement and I’ll die happy!

The amazement here started with the exceptional textural visuals of this Velouté. In order to do justice to it, I am forced to pick a designation pertaining to the world of fashion/beauty: a glamourous texture! This one I was having on this lunch has a unique dense/glamourous/unique orange texture miles away from the usual orange pumpkin texture (We are all used to what a good pumpkin velouté looks like depending on whether it is deeply ripe or not, but this one’s exceptional texture was the equation of both the pumpkin itself + what the Chef made out of it). It was not too creamy, not too light but at ideal consistency. The work of tastes here was true genius: not only the taste of the velouté on it’s own was exceptionally moving/daring/unique, but the tastebud wonder concerto was not going to end there: couple of tiny slices of deep flawlessly cooked flavored chorizo added a supreme smartly well thought smoky-ness. The slightly-cooked tasty pumkin seeds found in that velouté added an extra dimension of welcoming nutty flavors to this Velouté to end all Veloutés. Note to myself: Finally the velouté that has stole the show from my all time world’s favourite haute fine-dining soup/velouté, Guy Savoy’s signature dish Black truffle artichoke soup! I always remind people that it does not take a myriad of meals to sense the exceptional greatness of a Chef. It takes one meal, convincing enough, to give you a definitive idea of the greatness (or not) of a Chef. This is more than ever the best proof of such statement. There was in that one single food item a showcase of exceptional talent, creativity, an passionate commitment of a Chef to it’s food. An exceptional dish that pertains to the repertoire of the best food items at any greatest Three Michelin Star. As stunning as that!

PS: They change their menus oftenly, so that Velouté is not a Signature dish and may not necessarily be served regularly.

Report of that Lunch: http://aromes.xanga.com/723067367/best-restaurants-of-montreal-la-montee/

What I think months later: My personal experience with Juneau’s cuisine has evolved this way -> (1)A spectacular close to 3-star Michelin caliber lunch on Friday March 5th 2010 (2)A just ok dinner on June 26th 2010 (3) A dinner on May 31st 2011 where I simply had enough and decided to give up on him!

Restaurant Toque !’s Fromage Comtomme, crème au piment d’Espelette, pain craquant, gelée de piment, pomme et graines de tournesol –

Instead of offering the traditional plate of cheese, they brillantly concocted a cheese based marvel: caramelized apples with Comtomme cheese (turned into a slight cheesy fondue) might not be exciting on paper, but this dish is, to my tastebuds, one of the best daring/exciting/tastebud pleasers I could think of this year. From the nice crunchy mouthsome to the sweet and salty decadent balanced flavors and tastes, each bite of this tastebud marvel was a decadent propulsion to heaven. Litterally! In terms of moving tastes (as if that was not enoughly decadent, the creamy slighly peppery touch of Espelette chilly was shining through the dish, not to mention the delicious and exciting gelée of chilly) , this was simply a blast! Largely one item that all the world’s best restaurants would want to steal from Toque!.

Report of that dinner: http://aromes.xanga.com/716627762/best-tables-of-montreal-toque-restaurant/

What do I think, months later: Cheese-based courses need more of that type of fun creativity.

Lamb Tataki at Restaurant L’inconnu – Perhaps, the best mastered cooking (preparation + execution) that I sensed behind a meat since a long time. Enjoyably spicy. That exceptional fresh upfront well balanced and yet daring spicy Soya/Ginger/Chili/Lime taste will mark my souvenirs for a long time. The meat was nicely marinated, of impeccable tenderness, with a depth of flavor that was pure heaven. Fresh fennel completed this amazing dish. Largely a dish pertaining to the level of the best 2* Michelin tables. One that will set a reference to the most in all accounts: exceptional daring taste, exceptional work of the flavors, exceptional meat quality, genius work of the spicings. Simply an exceptional dish!

Report of that dinner: http://aromes.xanga.com/725756742/restaurant-linconnu-montreal/

What I think: Quite a work to turn such a common dish (lamb, beef, tuna tatakis are common these days on Mtl’s tables) into an impressive tastebud marvel.

Restaurant Laporte’s Oyster tartare, truffled scallops, Parsnip Velouté – Finally a mise en bouche that’s daring/moving on a Montreal fine dining table. I have always reproached the big majority of Mtl’s finest tables to not be enoughly daring when it comes to mise en bouche. That is not the case of this one mise en bouche: The creamy parnsip velouté was of perfect creaminess, sporting an enjoyable subtly sweet taste . It was topping a meaty flavorful tartare of impeccably fresh oyster. Even the chip you see on that velouté was remarquable: very tasty, enjoyably crunchy.A mise en bouche that is not only stunning to Montreal restaurants but also to world’s best tables. 5 star mise en bouche!

Report of that dinner: http://aromes.xanga.com/719924847/best-restaurants-of-montreal-la-porte/

What I think: Along with XO Le Restaurant, Le Marly, Raza and Toque, this is my top favourite choice for upscale fine dining in Montreal. In another city, and on the back of that stunning dinner (never mind the 1 or 2 little reproaches I did address on that review. All great meals has its share of grainy edges. Look at the overall, and as such this dinner was of outstanding level) , La Porte would be a double Michelin Star table easily.

Foie Gras Poélé, Tarte tatin aux pommes, Sauce Caramel I go to restaurants for only one reason: educating my palate to potential new benchmarks of deliciousness. I go to restaurants only to experience prime palatability, or else..what’s the point of paying for food? This course of pan seared duck liver is my benchmark for savourish restaurant food of all levels, all around the globe. Euh..euh…yeah, I saw many talented Chefs trying this…but their creations never came close to half of the remarkable taste of this one dish I have sampled at KG. Now, do not run there hoping to reach the moon: it is food, remember? All I am telling you is that this one pan seared foie gras, on that July 6th 2010 meal at KG, have blown my taste buds away and will be remembered (by me) for a long time as one of the tastiest dishes I ever sampled.

Report of that dinner: http://aromes.xanga.com/722855124/kitchen-galerie-montreal—an-unforgettable-gustatory-feast/

What I think months later: Few Chefs, at all levels of cooking that I have experienced, have proven to be gifted by such a natural easy-ness to deliver food that delicious. Axel is a young gifted Chef and with food like what he cooked on this meal, he has left his culinary imprint on my best dining souvenirs. If he keeps up with this standard, found on that reviewed meal, his talent will undoubtly seduce most palates.

Restaurant’s Toque! Pan-seated foie gras –

Very elegant chunk of beautifully-textured (perfect soft unctuous texture) pan-seared foie. Evenly cooked, deliciously tasty with an impeccable smooth inside consistency. It kept all it’s fully inner flavors. Bathed in a light subtly sweet delicious apple jus, with dices of apples and heavenly delectable dices of honey gelée. That apple jus is very distinct and lightens the dish. Simply, WoWed! Largely among the best pan-seared foie Items I ever had on any of the finest tables I dined at in Canada and abroad!

Report of that dinner: Report of that dinner: http://aromes.xanga.com/716627762/best-tables-of-montreal-toque-restaurant/

And you, what have been your best meals or food here or abroad (it could be your best meals ever if you want, not necessarily the best ones you have enjoyed recently)?

Thanks for sharing,

Aromes

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Aromes 2009-2010 Top 10 favourite food items in Montreal

Report of that dinner: http://aromes.xanga.com/714228763/montreals-luxurious-tables-xo-le-restaurant/

Report of that dinner: http://aromes.xanga.com/711358238/bistro-cocagne-montreal—friday-sept-4th-1800/

What I think months later: Montreal, wake up! Put pressure for this dish to make a comeback! The laws of supply and demand can make this happen. Borrow my palate for free and it should work, Rfaol!

Report of that dinner: http://aromes.xanga.com/716460932/best-tables-of-montreal-le-club-chasse-et-p%C3%AAche/

What I think months later: Forever stunned !!!….if only I could find more of this where I do expect it: at 2,3 Michelin star caliber restaurants. Should I say more?

Report of the meal: http://aromes.xanga.com/730124457/-the-new-restaurant-of-chef-mario-navarrete-jr-a-table–montreal/

What I think, weeks later: Speechless! Looking forward to more of the innovative cooking of Super Mario!

Chef Martin Juneau’s Butternut squash velouté, Chorizo – Oh my Lord! More of this overload of amazement and I’ll die happy!

PS: They change their menus oftenly, so that Velouté is not a Signature dish and may not necessarily be served regularly.

Report of that Lunch: http://aromes.xanga.com/723067367/best-restaurants-of-montreal-la-montee/

Restaurant Toque !’s Fromage Comtomme, crème au piment d’Espelette, pain craquant, gelée de piment, pomme et graines de tournesol –

Report of that dinner: http://aromes.xanga.com/716627762/best-tables-of-montreal-toque-restaurant/

What do I think, months later: Cheese-based courses need more of that type of fun creativity.

Report of that dinner: http://aromes.xanga.com/725756742/restaurant-linconnu-montreal/

What I think: Quite a work to turn such a common dish (lamb, beef, tuna tatakis are common these days on Mtl’s tables) into an impressive tastebud marvel.

Report of that dinner: http://aromes.xanga.com/719924847/best-restaurants-of-montreal-la-porte/

Report of that dinner: http://aromes.xanga.com/722855124/kitchen-galerie-montreal—an-unforgettable-gustatory-feast/

Restaurant’s Toque! Pan-seated foie gras –

Report of that dinner: Report of that dinner: http://aromes.xanga.com/716627762/best-tables-of-montreal-toque-restaurant/

And you, what have been your best meals or food here or abroad (it could be your best meals ever if you want, not necessarily the best ones you have enjoyed recently)?

Thanks for sharing,

Aromes

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XO Le Restaurant: Take Two

UPDATE- MAY 2013 CHEF MICHELE MERCURI IS NOT WORKING THERE ANYMORE. THIS POST IS THEREFORE KEPT ONLINE SOLELY FOR HISTORICAL PURPOSE

Event: Dinner at XO Le Restaurant

Type of food: Upscale Fine dining (Modern European)
Date and time: Friday March 19th, 2010 6:00PM
Location: 355 St Jacques, Ouest. Montreal, QC
Arome’s New Ranking of XO: #1 (Categ Upscale Fine Dining)
Arome’s Mention of this latest dinner: Excellent++
Read: My review of the 1st dinner there on Friday Oct 9th, 2009 8PM
URL: http://www.hotellestjames.com/the-life/dining/the-restaurant.asp

Food rating: Exceptional (10), Excellent (9), Very good (8), Good (7), just Ok (6)

(English review will follow below) – Présentement, à Montréal, c’est ce qui se rapproche le plus du calibre d’un 3 étoile Michelin à tous les égards (service, décor, expérience gastronomique, etc). Ici, on est vraiment dans le calibre Intl des 2 à 3 étoiles Michelin. Tant que le Chef Michelle Mercuri exposera son immense talent tel que j’en ai vécu l’expérience lors (surtout) de mon dernier repas au XO Le Restaurant, cette grande table sera toujours un 3 Michelin ‘officieux’ (puisqu’il n’ y a pas de resto Michelin à Mtl) à mes yeux. Allez y un Jeu/Vendr/Samedi soir, gardez l’esprit ouvert, et laissez le Chef Mercuri vaguer à sa créativité.

This is only my second dinner at XO Le Restaurant (restaurant of Montreal’s Hotel St-James in the Vieux Port of Montreal). Last time I was at this fine dining gourmet hot spot (ref: click here for a report of my previous dinner there ), what I’ve experienced was an overall dining experience that did set the bar for all Montreal restaurants: a stunning world-class dinner with an easily 2 Michelin star level food item (the Free Form Lasagna that I had on that dinner was perhaps the most memorable food item I ever enjoyed on any upscale fine dining table in Montreal & Surroundings), world class service (orchestrated by my personal choice for best waitress in 2009, Sidonie), luxurious decor and ambiance. But I felt bad because such upscale table is one that I should have more accurately reviewed through an epic gastronomic journey, the tasting menu! 5 Months later, here I am back: I learn that Sidonie is not on duty this time (a bit of a heartbreak for me since she was one kind of exceptional great waitress you seldomly get to meet. In my personal opinion, Sidonie is –along Christiane Lamarche at Toque! and Christina Garcia at Osco! among the very top best professionals of the restaurant scene in Montreal) but I should not worry since top service is their trademark.

This time, I can free myself from the photo session part of the restaurant’s interior settings: already done on the 1st report but I still brought my camera for visual accompaniment to my multiple couse tasting menu of the evening.

The Dinner of this evening: 9 course tasting menu ($135) + wine pairing ($80)
PS: You have many other options of tasting menus at various prices (3 course, 6 course If I recall properly and 9).

Started with a nice cocktail of lemon pétillant (their cocktails are expertly concocted, so this one was naturally a hit):

Went on with the 1st dish:

Course #1: Oyster in Soya jelly, Cucumber emulsion & Saké
The dominant fresh enjoyable flavor of the cucumber emulsion came through nicely on this course. That foamy emulsion was remarquably airy, refreshing and was topping a visually appealing dice of Soya gelé in which was inserted a meaty piece of delicious fresh oyster. At the bottom, couple of thinly minced morsels of beets that were fresh and tasty. Neither my pictures nor my description will manage to give justice to this world class food item: It was technically very modern and skillfully concocter both in terms of presentation and execution. One course of a level that I wished I could see more oftently on this world’s best tables: daring, complex, unique in all aspects. Chef Michelle Mercuri — and that is actually not a secret —- walks on the same tracks as any of our great 2* Michelin Chefs out there and the perfection of that little tastebud marvel is largely one proof among many others of how highly skilled he stands. Excellent++ 10/10
This was paired with a Bruno Paillard Champagne, 1ere Cuvée. It was exceptionally aged (30 Months) in barrel. Nice body, great structure, with an enjoyable taste of brioche bread. Elegant and classic as I love my Champagnes. Paired well with the Oyster course.

Course #2: Fresh Florida Shrimp, Razor clam, Compressed melon, Jicama, Pomegranate lemon grass granita, Ginger Yogurt Spuma – This was served in a Caviar metal container, that was itself disposed on crushed ice, in order to preserve the freshness of the course.

In the container, several concoctions:

first, the citrus granita was a Hit: decadent, delicious! Then the emulsion of yogurt: extremely tasty and of impeccable freshness.I liked the inspirational touches found on this food item: for example, some discrete pieces of thinly cuted delicious fresh radish paired with the yogurt turned out to be perfect tastebud wonders.The chunks of shrimp were nicely boiled and kept a perfect depth of flavor. This is a course that reminds us of how seafood and sweetness can be a fun exciting refreshing mix. The seeds of pomegranate added enjoyable crunchy-ness. So playful, exotic and interesting, although in full constructive honesty, I would change two things here (to be taken constructively):
(1) I would work the shrimp differently. Perhaps lightly frying/pan-searing it, just to elevate the textural robustness of the shrimp. It would also be interesting to see, on most Montreal tables, more of the black tiger sort of shrimps (whether it is or not a luxurious product is not the question. It is it’s taste that interests me) . I am being picky here, I know, but if you take this to that level of textural level, I am confident that it’s an extra that will please to all. Of course, the presentation would have then to be rethought (pan-seared shrimp would then requirre warmer accompaniments too). So, come to think about it, this is a matter of pure personal preference: that shrimp was of the highest quality and tasty / and this is not a complaint at all!
(2) A re-adjustment of the conceptual presentation of it all: perhaps skipping the pieces of fresh lettuces + laying all the rest separately in somekind of visually artistical ways (I ‘d steal couple of tricks from the Japanese food visuals here). With that said, do not fool yourself: Chef Michelle Mercuri cooks extremely beautiful food, as you will quickly realize from all the next food items. Good. 7/10
Pairing wine: Ostertag 2008, from Alsace. Exotic and Fruity, medium bodied white wine. Just ok for me.

Course #3: Charlevoix veal tartare, poached calamari, pumpkin seeds, Chorizo smoked mackerel, veal tongue:
Impeccable freshness of the veal, a fantastic tartare, exceptionally tasty with skillfully balanced flavors: not one hint of overpowering flavors, evenly spiced. The poached calamari was flawless, same could be said of the Chrorizo smoked mackerel and decadent veal tongue. Of modern visual presentation, this is the type of daring food Item I expect on a great 3* Michelin star table. The kind of marvel that reminds us of how greatness can be found in a plate and you just can’t describe it. You’ve just got to taste it, enjoy and feel fortunate that you were blessed by such. Genius on a plate. One notch above Excellent: Exceptional! 10/10
Here’s a flashless picture of that wonder, offering it to you through a different angle and visuals:

Pairing wine: A 2006 Clos Jordanne. An ok Chardonnay’s white wine (to me), dense, with a classic structure.I prefer wines with more depth.

Course #4: Guinea-hen, Morels, Black Truffles
Excellent fresh tasty black truffles (came from Italy’s region of Alba). Amazing earthy taste and flavors and as with all previous dishes: very well balanced/harmonious. The meatiness of the fowl and it’s excepional depth of flavor were remarquable. What’s even more remarquable about this dish is how classic flavors were brought up in a daring/re-juvenating way. Excellent, not only for it’s exceptional daring amazing tasty-ness but also for it’s inspired touches: the fowl’s meat was stuffed in delicious raviolis, meaty and daringly superior in terms of deliciousness. The intense jus beneath was rich and exceptionally tempting. The crunchy fresh green beans were pure genius add-ons to that dish and the fresh chunks of parmigiano cheese were pure tastebud wonders. This course pertains to World’s top meal courses, there is no doubt about that. Wowed! 10/10
Pairing wine: Clos Jordanne, Le grand Clos, 2006. This one fared better to my tastebuds than the previous. It’s also a Chardonnay. Nice minerality, nice structure and I sensed the expected enjoyable stone fruit aromas, as well as those of the white flower. Ok for the pairing.

Course #5: Organic Salmon confit, Pan-Seared foie gras, Salsify purée
Excellent fresh salmon with an impeccable pinky-ness to it, nicely cooked (sous-vidé), deep in flavor (10/10). Topping the salmon was a piece of foie gras that kept it’s perfect enjoyable livery flavor, perfect <!– /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:””; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:”Times New Roman”; mso-fareast-font-family:”Times New Roman”;} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} –> bouncy seared surface and flawless meaty mouthsome (10/10). Salsify purée was tasty. The piece of pork belly that you see on your right was proof that when put in the hands of a great Chef, that piece of meat never fails to be a wonderful thing. It was. Ironically, this is usually the type of dish that I am reluctant about, since most Chefs, as talented as they might have been, ended up offering it to me as a dull montage of food items rather than an harmonious juxtaposition of wonders that complement themselves. When you think about it, how harmonious and complementary can this sort of take on Surf (Salmon) & Turf (Foie Gras/Pork) be? Virtually unlikely. But here again the Genius of Chef Mercuri unleashes some outstanding magic: in a way that only my tastebuds could understand, the rich succulent eathiness of the foie was pure enlightment to the deep flavor of the Salmon, and this was mutual. The Pork Belly continued on that same trend: it shared outstanding kick and palatable amazement with the two others. There was in there an undeniable commitment to make flavors reaching newer dimensions of complexity (may it be the Foie, the Pork Belly or the Salmon…all three were oozing of an unusual work of deep, rich and tastebud-blowing flavors) and complement each other to perfection. He manages here to do the impossible: Another dish that goes to world’s best hall of fame. Excellent ++ 10/10
Here is a close up picture of it:

Pairing wine: 2005 Beaune Clos du Roi, 1er Cru, Maison Rapet. A great red wine with aromas of white pepper +
black cherry, great tannins, with an enjoyable finish. Paired really well with the dish.

Course #6: Gaspor Pork, Sweet potato gnocchi, black garlic purée
That Gaspor pork is known for it’s high quality and it was stunningly well concocted on this one -> ideal tender mouthsome with it’s enjoyable porky depth of flavor that was heavenly succulent. The sweet potato gnocchis were decadent. The black garlick purée was sublime. It’s not a dish for the glutony-hulky buddies of this world (Go to a fastfood joint for that! ), but an impeccable showcase of modern food item at it’s best. I would say of a level that’s anywhere between a 2* to 3* Michelin Star’s great meal. Exceptional! 10/10
Pairing wine: Brunello di Montalcino, 2004. Great red wine, nicely aged, with enjoyable deep aromatic flavors of black cherry , black olive, raspberry. Great pairing wine to that dish.

Course #7: Venison, cippolini –
The venison was impeccably rosy within, juicy, full-flavoured throughout, fork-tender and daringly tasty. The accompanied veggies were remarquable too: cippolini onions were nicely marinated and tasted great, oyster mushrooms were earthy and delish. 9/10.
Pairing wine: Las Rocas, Garnacha 2007. Excellent wine, with nice structure, balanced tannins, smooth texture and enjoyable aromas of Black cherry + Black raspberry. Paired well with the gamey-ness of the venison.

Course #8: Basmati rice jelly, Apple & Lavender broth, Melon Jelly, tangerine.
Genius work of the Basmati rice flavor here: not overwhelming, but in ideal subtility. It formed an enjoyable light, glutinous mass that was very refreshing and very pleasing in-mouth. Lots of great technical mastery here: balancing the flavor of the Basmati to ideal tastebud appreciation is of high mention. But this was not all: the precision of it’s sweet taste was remaquable: not overly sweet, not underly sweet but a well measured contained and yet very enjoyable sweetness. I might sound a bit too descriptive, but this translated in practise into an outstanding exercise of great mastery in taste and execution that is worthy of high mention. The broth (apple, lavender) added a welcoming light addition of acidity from the apple aromas (well thought, since it added sufficient kick to the lightness of the jelly) whereas the lavender subtle elegant flavor added an extra dimension of exotic freshness. The tangerine complemented ideally well the overall, with it’s lovely fragrance, not to forget the envouting freshness of the melon Jelly. Modern in it’s presentation and execution (cute little flowers, beautifully disposed fruits, technically contemporary in the way it is concocted), this dessert is an impressive work of passion, patience, intelligence (in balancing well that much complexity coming from so many ingredients) and inspiration. It was remarquably inventive, exotic and delicious. Very good. 8/10

Pairing wine: Jean-Luc Colombo, Muscat de Rivesaltes Les Saintes, 2003.

Full bodied, intense, fruity wine. That wine was a well thought choice on elevating the lightness of that delicious dessert.

Course #9: Ricotta mousse, Coriander Sorbet, Pomelo marmalade, Pecan foam cookie, Ivaory Sechuan peppercorn – The coriander sorbet, ideally frothy in texture, was stunning by it’s freshness and moving decadent rich taste. Pomelo marmalade was delicious, and the ricotta mousse was dense, airy, creamy and nicely done. This is a complex dessert that would actually move lots of fans of inventive desserts. The sorbet was not the only coriander-flavored tastebud marvel in there -> there was couple of amazing tasty sweet coriander-flavored chips that were remarquable.
The wait staff informed me that they have now a Pastry Chef. Chef Mercuri was doing a nice job on that department, but it is a great idea that he leaves the dessert part to a specialist of such. Too bad I was a bit tired at that point and was not in the mood of finding out more about that Pastry Chef, but I would be interested to learn more about her since her desserts are daringly modern and inventive. 8/10

Pairing wine: Monde, Vin de glace 2008, Vignoble de la Rivière du Chêne – Great ice wine, enjoyably fruity with aromas of peach, lemon confit, pineapple and honey. Went well with the dessert.

Mignardises comprised of chic quality sweets, all memorable:

Concluded this fantastic dinner with an enjoyable Brazilian Coffee:

Overall, what a spectacular inventive and daring tastebud showcase of modern high end fine dining! In a world where some other Chefs around the world need to play with their little nitrogen tubes in order to elevate food to a trend, I will always admire those who dare elevating food for what it is: a joy for the tastebud! And Montreal is lucky: Chefs like Michelle Mercuri (XO Le Restaurant) or Normand Laprise (Toque!) cook some very beautiful high end modern food that taste heavenly!

Service as usual was first class, very service-oriented, charming, attentive, focused.
You feel treated like a princess/prince (look around you and all acquaintances are receiving that same gracious service and remarquable magical sense of hospitality you wish to experience at ALL restaurants!) at this fine high end gourmet hot spot and the food is of world class mention.
Delay: Set your own delay, especially at such place where accomodation/flexibility is present. Talk to them and tell them how fast you want it to unfold. Timing is something purely personal and no one will agree on the perfect delays, so common sense: inform them of how in a hurry or not you are.

Chef Mercuri is not just ready for world’s big leagues, he is already there! Only reason he is not officially a 2* Michelin Star Chef is because Montreal has not got the same vibility of cities like Tokyo, Paris. Had Chef Mercuri evolved in those cities, that would have been a done deal. With Chefs like Normand Laprise (Toque!), Pelletier (Club Chasse & Peche), Navarrette (Raza), Rouyé (La Porte) and many more, I strongly believe that the next big surprises of World’s high end gourmet could come from here. Tonight, Chef Mercuri had not only proven that he is one of Mtl’s top best Chefs but that the world, too, is easily at it’s reach.

This tasting menu was daringly exceptional, and has actually reached the ultimate top Marks of my 2009-2010 Top 15 best dinners in Montreal & Surroundings, surpassing the exceptional fine dining dinner I had at Toque!. Which is quite an exceptional accomplishment.

PROS: this was of a level of a 3 star Michelin meal!

CONS: Nothing to complain about

Uncategorized

XO Le Restaurant: Take Two

UPDATE- MAY 2013 CHEF MICHELE MERCURI IS NOT WORKING THERE ANYMORE. THIS POST IS THEREFORE KEPT ONLINE SOLELY FOR HISTORICAL PURPOSE

Event: Dinner at XO Le Restaurant

Food rating: Exceptional (10), Excellent (9), Very good (8), Good (7), just Ok (6)

The Dinner of this evening: 9 course tasting menu ($135) + wine pairing ($80)
PS: You have many other options of tasting menus at various prices (3 course, 6 course If I recall properly and 9).

Started with a nice cocktail of lemon pétillant (their cocktails are expertly concocted, so this one was naturally a hit):

Went on with the 1st dish:

Pairing wine: Jean-Luc Colombo, Muscat de Rivesaltes Les Saintes, 2003.

Full bodied, intense, fruity wine. That wine was a well thought choice on elevating the lightness of that delicious dessert.

Pairing wine: Monde, Vin de glace 2008, Vignoble de la Rivière du Chêne – Great ice wine, enjoyably fruity with aromas of peach, lemon confit, pineapple and honey. Went well with the dessert.

Mignardises comprised of chic quality sweets, all memorable:

Concluded this fantastic dinner with an enjoyable Brazilian Coffee:

PROS: this was of a level of a 3 star Michelin meal!

CONS: Nothing to complain about

Uncategorized

BEST TABLES OF MONTREAL: Le Club Chasse et Pêche

Event: Dinner at Le Club Chasse et Pêche Restaurant
Friday November 13th, 18:00-21:30
Addr: 423 St Claude Montreal, QC H2Y 3B6
Url: http://www.leclubchasseetpeche.com
Phone: (514) 861-1112
Type of food: High end refined North American dining

Food rating: Exceptional (10), Excellent (9), Very good (8), Good (7), just Ok (6)

(English review to follow) – Officiellement, cette table est dans le top 5 Montréalais. Je dirai que c’est exact si je me base sur mon repas du 13 nov 2009. D’abord, lors de ce repas, j’ai été épaté par le plat de sanglier braisé. Un plat d’anthologie, pas seulement digne des meilleurs 3 Étoiles Michelin mais aussi de la crème des meilleures tables de la planète. Cela a beau sembler exagéré sur papier, mais ne l’est point dans les faits. Puis un plat de morue digne d’un solide 2 étoiles Michelin. Malheureusement, tout ne fut pas parfait: le dessert et l’entrée de pétoncle ne furent pas dignes du triomphe des deux plats précédemment mentionnés. Au final, c’est du top pour sa capacité à surprendre ici et là par un grand coup de magie (le sanglier, par exemple, lors de ce repas confirme que le Chef Pelletier est capable de froler le ciel).

Going to CCP is mystic affair (I love mysticism, it just have to happen naturally and charmingly. Which was the case here) for me: from booking a table over the phone with Ray, one of their staff gentleman (Oh man…this gentleman has that quiet powerful full-in control tone of voice of a young godfather, . Mystic was starting to blow in the air, right there!)…to watching the mystic appeal of their web site…to the choice of a Friday 13th…6PM (yeah..I know, it would be even better at midnight)…to lurk into the dark lanes of the Vieux port…

to the nostalgic soviet acronym (CCP)..to the somber interior of CCP:
…it was really a feeling I have so rarely experienced before going to a restaurant. Although I truely felt that mystical mood — I could not help myself from stopping to build up on the inside — to be very special/funny/and welcoming since years of intensively eating at restaurants had put aside the sweet excitement I once used to have whenever I was going at restaurants (there are feelings you just cannot control), I was also certain of one ultimate bottom line result: my judgements will be at the exact heights of my tastebud enthusiasm: mystic or not, I will rave if the food is great and will not hesitate to call a cat a cat if it’s less stellar .

Upon arrival, I am courteously greeted by a dynamic wait staff (very dynamic, helpful, courteous. You can see that they were very well selected, very well trainned). I truely like this refreshing melting pot (from different backgrounds/origins) of well-mannered, professional and yet accessible gentlemen and women. My dedicated waiter, Phillipe Morissette, is a gem of his own: soft spoken, very well educated + articulated, this cool high class gentleman is service-oriented, very knowledgeable and his past experience at some Relais & Chateaux shows towards his impeccable service (along with Sidonie at XO, Phillipe — up to now — is among my personal top two favourite Mtl waiters of 2009).

The decor is dark (the cool kind of dark ), narrow, with low ceilings:

Because of it’s omnipresence of somber colors (oil-painted alike dark grey on the walls, dark burgundy armchairs, dark colored ceilings and floors),

it brings a cozy feeling but make no mistake: this place is very popular and this evening was lively (lots of people, great ambiance, nice background music of techno and other type of trendy music types. Background Music was set to perfect volume since you could talk without having to raise the voice and you could easily hear others with them talking at normal tone). Pics were of course taken right at the opening at 6PM, so people were not getting in yet (but less than an hour later, it was packed).

It is important to note that there’ s no official tasting menu at CCP. But they are so accomodating that they will concoct one upon your special request. That is the case here and I highly appreciated the move:

Course #1: Pan-seared scallop cooked à l’unilatérale (cooked on one side) with an artful line of fennel cream. The solo big scallop had a succesful sear, was evenly cooked but I wish it had more of the fully marine flavour punch and exciting effect of its far better peers. Fortunately, this was not an indication of what would follow next 5/10
Accompanied wine: a 2007 Alsace Bergheim’s white Marceil Deiss pinot. I have a long time soft spot for most wines from Alsace (they are accessible, have a nice light fruity taste I am fond of) and this was no exception. The slight creamy and apple-y flavors of this subtle sweet elegant wine is ideal pairing to the scallop.

Course #2: Sweetbreads/Gremolata/Artichoke
Sweetbreads is a touchy affair. It is bitter by nature but the most talented chefs know how to turn this snicky meaty chunk into a tastebud wonder. And this one at CCP was exactly this: a marvelous tastebud wonder!
Cooked in white wine, the sweetbreads were flavorfully intensily rich, utterly tasty, perfectly smooth on the inside, nicely crispy on the outside. Awesome expert work here to avoid the usual natural bitterness of the sweetbreads and making it very pleasant as I expect my best sweetbreads to stand. The accompaniment of gremolata is a genius classic accompaniment to veal meats and it was there, and it was a superbly tasty expertly concocted condiment. The light and vibrant mushroomy porcini reduction, the savourish creamy elegant celery-root purée …all added an harmonious multiple dimension of tasting experience to this flawless course. 8.5/10
Accompanied wines: two glasses here. Really a nice touch from Phillipe, my waiter. He is also a sommelier, too. The idea here was to get the short finish light-on-the-palate 2005 Les Fourneaux chablis 1er cru to reach out with the artichokes accompaniment of the sweetbreads, while his buddy the 2005 Cotes du Jura Chardonnay (more vibrant/with a long finish and subtle nose of hazelnut) would take care of the rest of this course:

Not a bad idea at all since they all paired harmoniously well (particularly on a plate where there was quite a suite of ingredients: gremolata, porcini reduction, celery-root purée).

Course #3: Cod, oyster flavors, vegetables, Black garlick purée
Smelt very enjoyably freshly flavorful right away. Bathed in a light crème normande , with a fresh flavor of oyster and topped by artful slim slices of beets and carrots with tasty mushroomy accompaniment. Perfectly seared on the outside, with an ideal tender flaky and moist inside consistency. This was total blast in terms of impressive taste, freshness, tastebud amazement: it had that very memorable ‘marine’ flavor I seek in my perfect freshest pieces of fish. All accompaniments stood out well here: mushrooms were tender and packed of flavorful freshness. The crème normande was very tasty. I want to underlign a particular element on this plate that I would, If I were them, put a patent on: on the plate, there was a tiny trace of creamy sweet black garlick purée. This was not just original, it was a memorable treat -> heavenly tasty without the bad notes of garlick, this creamy marvel is true genius workout that I have never tasted before and that compete with the Bistro Cocagne’s onion chutney I intensively raved about (check out the review of my Septh 4th Bistro Cocagne’s dinner). Both CCP and Bistro Cocagne should put a patent on the above-mentionned creative dish accompaniments! 9/10
Pairing wine: the 2006 Savigny les Beaune (Domaine Catherine & Claude Maréchal). I had enjoyed some great Savigny Les Beaune (the Les Hauts Jarrons, 1er Cru, Nicolas Potel being one I highly enjoyed) and this one was in the same trend: full bodied, with a refined elegant texture and enjoyably aromatic flavor. Satisfying choice of wine, but I would personally chose a nice white Sauvignon (as usual, question of pure personal prefs).

Course #4: Braised boar/Brussels sprouts/hazelnuts/Caramelized fig
Bathed in a very delicious light and flavorful meaty jus (the juice of the braised boar itself), this course has simply stole the show as my 2009 Mtl’s best main course (along with the Free Form Lasagna I had at XO): with a light amazing tasty crusty coating on the outside (basically a light elegant cheesy coating), perfect browny texture, ideally tender on the inside. This marvel-to-the-tastebud wonder was a genius workout of amazing flavorful meaty taste with accompaniments that were creatively so well thought: the hazelnuts in there were not just another ingredients to try…they were a perfect harmonious addition to the rest of this course. The caramelized fig was pure genius food work: intensely rich and tasty, it was the kind of tastebud amazement marvel that secured for good what I think of this cuisine: one of world’s bests (YES…you are reading this right! Do not go to CCP, order a risotto and complain that I am pushing a bit too much when I write this. Instead, be more accurate: Go to some of the best restaurants of the world like the Fat Duck, El Bulli, L’Osier, L’Astrance, Hermann. Then head to CCP, try this Braised boar course. Then you will get what I mean! Of course, I am not stating that CCP is as great as those. That is purely subjective and I wont go there. What I am stating is that on this tasting menu, some items compete with the best ones I ate at the Fat Duck, El Bulli, L’Osier..etc). Back to the helluvah heavenly caramelized fig: so it added to an already flawless course, a level that is hard to beat. This, folks, would send even the best tables of the world (El Bulli, Fat Duck) to reflexion. Stunned! 10/10
Pairing wine: Montecillo Gran Reserva 2001. To my tastebuds, this was perfect match with the boar meat. The oaky intense flavor of that MGR 2001 is exactly what I seek for with my game meats.

Course #5: Pan-seared duck liver, purée of dates, jalapeno flavoured apple jelly
Nice cooking technique here (very close to my two top personal Mtl’s all time best pan-seared foie: refer to my Febr 13th dinner at L’Eau à la Bouche + the Sept 4th dinner at Bistro Cocagne): beautifully seared, slightly brown on the outside, enoughly smooth (albeit a little bit mushy at some point when I was digging deeper into it, which makes it just a tad behind the impressive one I had at EAB…but with accompaniments that stole the show over it’s similar at EAB…mind you the one I had at EAB had barely any accompaniment…didn’t need accompaniments neither since it was stellar on it’s own self) consistency on the inside. The taste was flawless, very hearty and delicious. It was accompanied by a suite of pure wonders I have got to rave about, because not only they did add a welcoming degree of creativity and well thought additions to the duck liver, they also were very tasty: a delicious sweet fruity purée of dates (talk about adding marvels to the marvelous), a jalapeno flavoured apple jelly (Wowed! Patent..Put a Patent on this, my dear CCP! Heavenly delicious, elegantly concocted) , nice fresh slices of spice bread…all were heavenly breezes to my heart, eyes and tastebuds. 8.5/10
Paired with a QC’s ice cider: that’s the beauty of the new world touch -> as much as I liked my fruity Old world classic wine along with the foie, I must admit that ice cider brings better punch!

Course #6: Paris-Brest topped with a popcorn ice cream
The popcorn ice cream is one I never tried before.This one was surprisingly delicious and elegantly superior (in taste, richness of the flavors) to the usual good ice creams. Heavenly tasty ice cream with bites of nuts that were crunchily nice, but the overall Paris-Brest, although not bad at all, failed to seduce me: the choux pastry ring was nice but not memorable. Same opinion over the pastry cream. I am fond of Paris-Brest, but this one was slightly sub par to the top ones I had at the high end pastry spots of Montreal (Patisserie L’Escurier, for ie). Sorry for the comparison but judgement is an equation of comparisons. So, the Paris-Brest was acceptable but not great. 6/10

Just need to underlign a nice little touch from their part, here: the Paris-Brest was served with a nice cup of warm enjoyable light Assam tea. This is a great idea, since the amazing malty light flavor of this type of tea really balanced harmoniously well the sweetness of the Paris Brest. Nice touch!

I found the delay very reasonable between the courses (average of 30 mins between the course, but never mind the numbers here…this is perfect timing to enjoy one course at a time as it is supposed to be!). I sometimes see criticisms about tasting menus being too long: that is a non sense. A tasting menu is supposed to be slowly fully enjoyed. What is a tasting menu if I feel like just stuffing my mouth one food item right after another??

If you ask me, given a complete economical blackout, what Montreal restaurant would be the very last to close, I’d say CCP: get this -> without big advertisements, with just mouth to mouth recommendations, this place is packed of devoted fans. And that is happening with nearby great restaurants like Chez L’Épicer. When success wants you, there is no escape out! I am sure the owner (s) must laugh at night while sleeping: just mouth to mouth reputation and they end up with one of Mtl’s most admired tables. Well deserved because this is a stunning cuisine! It is also a place that shines with an impeccably well trainned admirable staff (here, I deeply felt that everyone is equally treated with class and full attention with a level of professionalism and accomodation that all restaurants would gain from following).

The only 2 reasons LCCP is getting a VERY GOOD mention from my part, instead of EXCELLENT (it is very close to Excellent btw, and they truely do not need my opinion to know that. Look at how they are appreciated by armies of food fans…that right there talk for their greatness) is just because I expect such highly talented cuisine to blow my tastebuds with an impressive dessert course (make no mistake, I am sure they can deliver tastebud blowing desserts like those I enjoyed at EAB, M Sur Masson, Bistro Cocagne and Nuances) + the 1st course of Pan-Seared scallop lacked the fully marine freshness and taste I do expect on an appetizer of Seafood .

On my way to CCP, this Bob Marley song was playing in my mind: ‘there is a natural mystic blowing through the air…’. On my way back, another song was reworked to suit my subsequent feelings: Black Eyed Peas ‘I got a feeling that tonight gonna be a good night’ was simply renamed ‘Tonight was a very good night’. There are moments in your life that are simply filled with greatness, and in this imperfect world of sins and economical turmoils, I pray for such spectacular happyness to spread over the destiny of the less fortunate!

PROS: Some of the savouries were of world class level on this dinner, especially the braised boar and cod
CONS: What were that weak scallop starter and forgettable dessert doing there?

Ok, Folks I am out! For more and better pictures on this dinner, please visit my Google’s Picasa.

WHAT I THINK MONTHS LATER: I went back two more times, with friends, since that reviewed meal, and based on those visits, I can indeed safely confirm that the finest food items I had here pertains to world class level. The braised boar, as an example, was as spectacular as any of the best food items at a world’s top 10 best table, if such top 10 makes sense to you. But I have hard time electing LCCP as a strong favourite, for a very simple reason: some items I had here were not items I would expect at the level of their finest dishes. And that transpired right there on my reviewed meal: the lacklustre scallop, the ordinary paris brest. Still, this is easily in top 5 Montreal’s finest fine dining destinations, even top 3 would make perfect sense. Is it number 1,2,3,4 or 5? Hard to say. Perhaps no one will ever know, since it would take several visits to the very top of Yul’s fine dining ventures (XO Le restaurant, Toque!, La Porte, L’Européa, Nuances) to really get a strong personal subjective opinion about this matter. Keep in mind that even even as a subjective personal opinion, you will still hit another wall: some are into European cuisine, others French, others North American. Good luck!

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BEST TABLES OF MONTREAL: Le Club Chasse et Pêche