Aromes 2009-2010 Top 10 favourite food items in Montreal

XO Le Restaurant’s Free Form Lasagna – It’s being a while since I tried this dish (Oct 10^th 2009), so I do not know how it did evolve. But this one I had on that specificc dinner was one triumph of a 3* Michelin caliber meal over the highest standards of fine dining at any corner of this small planet. Here’s how I did describe it, back then:

Called “Free form lasagna”, this dish — I predict — will quickly become the signature dish of their chef, Michele Mercuri: although, at first glance, it might not look like your typical lasagna, it is  packed with all technical goodies of a lasagne: cheese, pasta and so on. But this is a unique luxurious creative version of the lasagna -> as you can see on the picture, it’s more of a “deconstructive” version of it. What the picture wont tell you (and that is why I do predict that this is a signature dish to come) is about the remarquable work that is done in terms of savourishness:  from the small tasty chunks of lobster, succulent braided sweetbreads, enjoyable lobster emulsion, fresh tender baby spinash and oh so lovely stracchino cheese….every little element of that dish was a blast in terms of taste. Impeccably delicious. 5/5 and more if I could!  

Report of that dinner: http://aromes.xanga.com/714228763/montreals-luxurious-tables-xo-le-restaurant/

What do I think, months later:  That specific one dish I had on that evening is still my top #1 dish in Mtl up to now, in the top #5 dish if I include top restaurants that I visited abroad. XO Le Restaurant, along with Toque! are Arome’s top choices for world class fine dining in Montreal at this moment. Currently, easily of solid 2* Michelin caliber based on my two dinners there.

 

Bistro Cocagne’s Braised Lamb/Risotto – This dish shares my 2009-2010 top #1 meal in Montreal with XO Le Restaurant’s Free Form Lasagna. If I include the top tables that I have tried abroad, it’s in the top #3 ever! Yep, as stunning as that! Bistro Cocagne is a market driven table,  so I was a bit sad when I recently found my favourite dish removed from their menu. My description of the dish:

that was a generous portion of fully flavoured, perfectly cooked (awesome braised caramelly textured on the outside, so tender — on the inside — that it would slide off the bone effortlessly). Heavenly! 5/5 for the lamb. So, as those who are used to me already know, I always eat the meat first, then it’s accompaniments separately ->   The accompanying risotto was very interesting and refreshingly different from my usual risottos: it had some fresh enjoyable crunchy corn seeds, pieces of carrots, a perfect lite creamy consistency with a subtle enjoyable touch of sweetness (there was also what looked and tasted like slices of tamarind. I think this was sun-dried tomato, but they did really taste like tamarind. Those were a well thought addition to that savourish risotto). The risotto was evenly seasoned with amazing little savourish crunchy grains of rice (looked like arborio rice, to me).

Report of that dinner: http://aromes.xanga.com/711358238/bistro-cocagne-montreal—friday-sept-4th-1800/

What I think months later: Montreal, wake up! Put pressure for this dish to make a comeback! The laws of supply and demand can make this happen. Borrow my palate for free and it should work, Rfaol!

Club Chasse et Peche’s Braised boar/Brussels sprouts/hazelnuts/Caramelized fig – I’ll let my description talk for it: ‘’’’Bathed in a very delicious light and flavorful meaty jus (the juice of the braised boar itself), this course has simply stole the show as my 2009 Mtl’s best main course (along with the Free Form Lasagna I had at XO): with a light amazing tasty crusty coating on the outside (basically a light elegant cheesy coating), perfect browny texture, ideally tender on the inside. This marvel-to-the-tastebud wonder was a genius workout of amazing flavorful meaty taste with accompaniments that were creatively so well thought: the hazelnuts in there were not just another ingredients to try…they were a perfect harmonious addition to the rest of this course. The caramelized fig was pure genius food work: intensely rich and tasty, it was the kind of tastebud amazement marvel that secured for good what I think of this cuisine: one of world’s bests. This, folks, would send even the best tables of the world (El Bulli, Fat Duck) to reflexion. Stunned!

 Report of that dinner: http://aromes.xanga.com/716460932/best-tables-of-montreal-le-club-chasse-et-p%C3%AAche/

What I think months later:  Forever stunned !!!….if only I could find more of this where  I do  expect it: at 2,3 Michelin star caliber restaurants.  Should I say more?

Chef Mario Navarrete’ s Tuna ceviche, Mango purée – Most of the dishes that this Latino genius has cooked for me, turned out impressive. I picked one of them, one that is of the next dimension.  This dish is a showcase of precision and exceptional skills. Why? Because in the hands of an average cook, a mango purée is the ticket to overwhelm anything that it is mixed with. In the hands of a genius cook like Chef Navarrete, it is a revelation. The purée, of outstanding light consistency and delicious taste, was of ideal combination with that fresh morsel of tuna (here again, a lot of brilliant work in balancing well the peppery/spicy/acidic marinated  taste of the tuna ceviche). Genius work to let each ingredient oozing in their pristine purity  and yet complementing themselves. This is easily of solid 2 to 3 Michelin star caliber.

Report of the meal: http://aromes.xanga.com/730124457/-the-new-restaurant-of-chef-mario-navarrete-jr-a-table–montreal/

What I think, weeks later: Speechless! Looking forward to more of the innovative cooking of Super Mario!

Chef Martin Juneau’s Butternut squash velouté, Chorizo – Oh my Lord! More of this overload of amazement and I’ll die happy!

The amazement here started with the exceptional textural visuals of this Velouté. In order to do justice to it, I am forced to pick a designation pertaining to the world of fashion/beauty: a glamourous texture! This one I was having on this lunch has a unique dense/glamourous/unique orange texture miles away from the usual orange pumpkin texture (We are all used to what a good pumpkin velouté looks like depending on whether it is deeply ripe or not, but this one’s exceptional texture was the equation of both the pumpkin itself + what the Chef made out of it). It was not too creamy, not too light but at ideal consistency. The work of tastes here was true genius: not only the taste of the velouté on it’s own was exceptionally moving/daring/unique, but the tastebud wonder concerto was not going to end there: couple of tiny slices of deep flawlessly cooked flavored chorizo added a supreme smartly well thought smoky-ness. The slightly-cooked tasty pumkin seeds found in that velouté added an extra dimension of welcoming nutty flavors to this Velouté to end all Veloutés. Note to myself: Finally the velouté that has stole the show from my all time world’s favourite haute fine-dining soup/velouté, Guy Savoy’s signature dish Black truffle artichoke soup! I always remind people that it does not take a myriad of meals to sense the exceptional greatness of a Chef. It takes one meal, convincing enough, to give you a definitive idea of the greatness (or not) of a Chef. This is more than ever the best proof of such statement. There was in that one single food item a showcase of exceptional talent, creativity, an passionate commitment of a Chef to it’s food. An exceptional  dish that pertains to the repertoire of the best food items at any greatest Three Michelin Star. As stunning as that!

PS: They change their menus oftenly, so that Velouté is not a Signature dish and may not necessarily be served regularly.  

Report of that Lunch: http://aromes.xanga.com/723067367/best-restaurants-of-montreal-la-montee/

What I think months later: My personal experience with Juneau’s cuisine has evolved this way ->  (1)A spectacular close to 3-star Michelin caliber lunch on Friday March 5th 2010  (2)A just ok dinner on June 26th 2010 (3) A dinner on May 31st 2011 where I simply had enough and decided to give up on him!

Restaurant Toque !’s Fromage Comtomme, crème au piment d’Espelette, pain craquant, gelée de piment, pomme et graines de tournesol –

Instead of offering the traditional plate of cheese, they brillantly concocted a cheese based marvel: caramelized apples with Comtomme cheese (turned into a slight cheesy fondue) might not be exciting on paper,  but this dish is, to my tastebuds, one of the best daring/exciting/tastebud pleasers I could think of this year.  From the nice crunchy mouthsome to the sweet and salty decadent balanced flavors and tastes, each bite of this tastebud marvel  was a decadent propulsion to heaven. Litterally! In terms of moving tastes (as if that was not enoughly decadent, the creamy slighly peppery touch of Espelette chilly was shining through the dish, not to mention the delicious and exciting gelée of chilly) , this was simply a blast!   Largely one item that all the world’s best restaurants would want to steal from Toque!.

Report of that dinner: http://aromes.xanga.com/716627762/best-tables-of-montreal-toque-restaurant/

What do I think, months later: Cheese-based courses need more of that type of fun creativity.

Lamb Tataki at Restaurant  L’inconnu –  Perhaps, the best mastered cooking (preparation + execution)  that I sensed behind a meat since a long time. Enjoyably  spicy. That exceptional fresh upfront well balanced and yet daring spicy Soya/Ginger/Chili/Lime taste will mark my souvenirs for a long time. The meat was nicely marinated, of impeccable tenderness, with a depth of flavor that was pure heaven. Fresh fennel completed this amazing dish. Largely a dish pertaining to the level of the best 2* Michelin  tables. One that will set a reference to the most in all accounts: exceptional daring taste, exceptional work of the flavors, exceptional meat quality, genius work of the spicings. Simply an exceptional dish!

Report of that dinner: http://aromes.xanga.com/725756742/restaurant-linconnu-montreal/

What I think: Quite a work to turn such  a common dish (lamb, beef, tuna tatakis are common these days on Mtl’s tables)  into an impressive tastebud marvel.

Restaurant Laporte’s Oyster tartare, truffled scallops, Parsnip Velouté  – Finally a mise en bouche that’s daring/moving on a Montreal fine dining table. I have always reproached the big majority of Mtl’s finest tables to not be enoughly daring when it comes to mise en bouche. That is not the case of this one mise en bouche: The creamy parnsip velouté was of perfect creaminess, sporting an enjoyable subtly sweet taste . It was topping a meaty flavorful tartare of impeccably fresh oyster. Even the chip you see on that velouté was remarquable: very tasty, enjoyably crunchy.A mise en bouche that is not only stunning to Montreal restaurants but also to world’s best tables. 5 star mise en bouche!

Report of that dinner: http://aromes.xanga.com/719924847/best-restaurants-of-montreal-la-porte/

What I think: Along with XO Le Restaurant, Le Marly, Raza and Toque, this is my top favourite choice for upscale fine dining in Montreal. In another city, and on the back of that stunning dinner (never mind the 1 or 2 little reproaches I did address on that review. All great meals has its share of grainy edges. Look at the overall, and as such this dinner was of outstanding level) , La Porte would be a double Michelin Star table easily.

Foie Gras Poélé, Tarte tatin aux pommes, Sauce Caramel I go to restaurants for only one reason: educating my palate to potential new benchmarks of deliciousness. I go to restaurants only to experience prime palatability, or else..what’s the point of paying for food?  This course of pan seared duck liver  is my benchmark for savourish restaurant food of all levels, all around the globe. Euh..euh…yeah, I saw many talented Chefs trying this…but their creations never came close to half of the remarkable taste of this one dish I have sampled at KG. Now, do not run there hoping to reach the moon: it is  food, remember? All I am telling you is that this one pan seared foie gras, on that July 6th 2010  meal at KG, have blown my taste buds away and will be remembered (by me) for a long time as one of the tastiest dishes I ever sampled. 

Report of that dinner: http://aromes.xanga.com/722855124/kitchen-galerie-montreal—an-unforgettable-gustatory-feast/

What I think months later: Few Chefs, at all levels of cooking that I have experienced, have proven to be gifted by such a natural easy-ness to deliver food that delicious. Axel is a young gifted Chef and with food like what he cooked on this meal, he has left his culinary imprint on my best dining souvenirs.  If he keeps up with this standard, found on that reviewed meal, his talent will undoubtly seduce most palates.

Restaurant’s Toque! Pan-seated foie gras –

Very elegant chunk of beautifully-textured (perfect soft unctuous texture) pan-seared foie. Evenly cooked, deliciously tasty with an impeccable smooth inside  consistency. It kept all  it’s fully inner flavors. Bathed in a light subtly sweet delicious  apple jus, with dices of apples and heavenly delectable dices of honey gelée. That apple jus is very distinct and lightens the dish. Simply, WoWed!  Largely among the best pan-seared foie Items I ever had on any of the finest tables I dined at in Canada and abroad!

Report of that dinner: Report of that dinner: http://aromes.xanga.com/716627762/best-tables-of-montreal-toque-restaurant/

And you, what have been your best meals or food here or abroad (it could be your best meals ever if you want, not necessarily the best ones you have enjoyed  recently)?

 

Thanks for sharing,

Aromes

XO Le Restaurant: Take Two

 

UPDATE- MAY 2013  CHEF MICHELE MERCURI  IS NOT WORKING THERE ANYMORE. THIS POST IS THEREFORE KEPT ONLINE SOLELY FOR   HISTORICAL PURPOSE

Event: Dinner at XO Le Restaurant

Type of food: Upscale Fine dining (Modern European)
Date and time: Friday March 19th, 2010  6:00PM
Location: 355 St Jacques, Ouest. Montreal, QC
Arome’s New Ranking of XO: #1 (Categ Upscale Fine Dining)
Arome’s Mention of this latest dinner: Excellent++
Read: My review of the 1st dinner there on Friday Oct 9th, 2009  8PM
URL: http://www.hotellestjames.com/the-life/dining/the-restaurant.asp

Food rating: Exceptional (10), Excellent (9), Very good (8), Good (7), just Ok (6)

(English review will follow below) – Présentement, à Montréal, c’est ce qui se rapproche le plus du calibre d’un 3 étoile Michelin à tous les égards (service, décor, expérience gastronomique, etc). Ici, on est vraiment dans le calibre Intl des 2 à 3 étoiles Michelin. Tant que le Chef Michelle Mercuri exposera son immense talent tel que j’en ai vécu l’expérience lors (surtout) de mon dernier repas au XO Le Restaurant, cette grande table sera toujours un 3 Michelin ‘officieux’ (puisqu’il n’ y a pas de resto Michelin à Mtl) à mes yeux.  Allez y un Jeu/Vendr/Samedi soir, gardez l’esprit ouvert, et laissez le Chef Mercuri vaguer à sa créativité.

This is only my second dinner at XO Le Restaurant (restaurant of Montreal’s Hotel St-James in the Vieux Port of Montreal). Last time I was at this fine dining gourmet hot spot (ref: click here for a report of my previous dinner there ), what I’ve experienced was an overall dining experience that did set the bar for all Montreal restaurants: a stunning world-class dinner with an easily 2 Michelin star level food item (the Free Form Lasagna that I had on that dinner was perhaps the most memorable food item I ever enjoyed on any upscale fine dining table in Montreal & Surroundings), world class service (orchestrated by my personal choice for best waitress in 2009, Sidonie), luxurious decor and ambiance. But I felt bad because such upscale table is one that I should have more accurately reviewed through an epic gastronomic journey, the tasting menu! 5 Months later, here I am back: I learn that Sidonie is not on duty this time (a bit of a heartbreak for me since she was one kind of exceptional great  waitress you seldomly get to meet. In my personal opinion, Sidonie is –along Christiane Lamarche at Toque! and Christina Garcia at Osco!  among the very top best professionals of the restaurant scene in Montreal) but I should not worry since top service is their trademark.

This time, I can free myself from the photo session part of the restaurant’s interior settings: already done on the 1st report  but I still brought my camera for visual accompaniment to my multiple couse tasting menu of the evening.

The Dinner of this evening: 9 course tasting menu ($135) + wine pairing ($80)
PS: You have many other options of tasting menus at various prices (3 course, 6 course If I recall properly and 9).

Started with a nice cocktail of lemon pétillant (their cocktails are expertly concocted, so this one was naturally a hit):

Went on with the 1st dish:

Course #1: Oyster in Soya jelly, Cucumber emulsion & Saké
The dominant  fresh enjoyable flavor of the cucumber emulsion came through nicely on this course. That foamy emulsion was remarquably airy, refreshing and was topping a visually appealing dice of Soya gelé in which was inserted a meaty piece of delicious fresh oyster. At the bottom, couple of thinly minced morsels of beets that were fresh and tasty. Neither my pictures nor my description will manage to give justice to this world class food item: It was technically very modern and skillfully concocter both in terms of presentation and execution. One course of a level that I wished I could see more oftently on this world’s best tables: daring, complex, unique in all aspects. Chef Michelle Mercuri — and that is actually not a secret —- walks on the same tracks as any of our great 2* Michelin Chefs out there and the perfection of that little tastebud marvel is largely one proof among many others of how highly skilled he stands. Excellent++  10/10
This was paired with a Bruno Paillard Champagne, 1ere Cuvée. It was exceptionally aged (30 Months) in barrel. Nice body, great structure, with an enjoyable taste of brioche bread. Elegant and classic as I love my Champagnes. Paired well with the Oyster course.

Course #2: Fresh Florida Shrimp, Razor clam, Compressed melon, Jicama, Pomegranate lemon grass granita, Ginger Yogurt Spuma – This was served in a  Caviar metal container, that was itself disposed on crushed ice, in order to preserve the freshness of the course.

In the container, several concoctions:

first, the citrus granita was a Hit: decadent, delicious! Then the emulsion of yogurt: extremely tasty and of impeccable freshness.I liked the inspirational touches found on this food item: for example, some discrete pieces of thinly cuted delicious fresh radish paired with the yogurt turned out to be perfect tastebud wonders.The chunks of shrimp were nicely boiled and kept a perfect depth of flavor. This is a course that reminds us of how seafood and sweetness can be a fun exciting refreshing mix. The seeds of pomegranate added enjoyable crunchy-ness. So playful, exotic and interesting, although in full constructive honesty, I would change two things here (to be taken constructively):
(1) I would work the shrimp differently. Perhaps lightly frying/pan-searing it, just to elevate the textural robustness of  the shrimp. It would also be interesting to see, on most Montreal tables,  more of the black tiger sort of shrimps (whether it is or not a luxurious product is not the question. It is it’s taste that interests me) . I am being picky here, I know, but if you take this to that level of textural level, I am confident that it’s an extra that will please to all. Of course, the presentation would have then to be rethought (pan-seared shrimp would then requirre warmer accompaniments too). So, come to think about it,  this is a matter of pure personal preference: that shrimp was of the highest quality and tasty / and this is not a complaint at all!
(2) A re-adjustment of the conceptual presentation of it all: perhaps skipping the pieces of fresh lettuces + laying all the rest separately in somekind of visually artistical ways (I ‘d steal couple of tricks from the Japanese food visuals here). With that said, do not fool yourself: Chef Michelle Mercuri cooks extremely beautiful food, as you will quickly realize from all the next food items. Good. 7/10
Pairing wine: Ostertag 2008, from Alsace. Exotic and Fruity, medium bodied white wine.  Just ok for me.

Course #3: Charlevoix veal tartare, poached calamari, pumpkin seeds, Chorizo smoked mackerel, veal tongue:
Impeccable freshness of the veal, a fantastic tartare, exceptionally tasty with skillfully balanced flavors: not one hint of overpowering flavors, evenly spiced. The poached calamari was flawless, same could be said of the Chrorizo smoked mackerel and  decadent veal tongue. Of modern visual presentation, this is the type of daring food Item I expect on a great 3* Michelin star table. The kind of marvel that reminds us of how greatness can be found in a plate and you just can’t describe it. You’ve just got to taste it, enjoy and feel fortunate that you were blessed by such. Genius on a plate. One notch above Excellent: Exceptional! 10/10
Here’s a flashless picture of that wonder, offering it to you through a different angle and visuals:

Pairing wine: A 2006 Clos Jordanne. An ok Chardonnay’s white wine (to me), dense, with a classic structure.I prefer wines with more depth.

Course #4: Guinea-hen, Morels, Black Truffles
Excellent fresh tasty black truffles (came from Italy’s region of Alba). Amazing earthy taste and flavors and as with all previous dishes: very well balanced/harmonious. The meatiness of the fowl and it’s excepional depth of flavor were remarquable. What’s even more remarquable about this dish is how classic flavors were brought up in a daring/re-juvenating way. Excellent, not only for it’s exceptional daring amazing tasty-ness but also for it’s inspired touches: the fowl’s meat was stuffed in delicious raviolis, meaty and daringly superior in terms of deliciousness. The intense jus beneath was rich and exceptionally tempting. The crunchy fresh green beans were pure genius add-ons to that dish and the fresh chunks of parmigiano cheese were pure tastebud wonders. This course pertains to World’s top meal courses, there is no doubt about that. Wowed! 10/10
Pairing wine: Clos Jordanne, Le grand Clos, 2006. This one fared better to my tastebuds than the previous. It’s also a Chardonnay. Nice minerality, nice structure and I sensed the expected enjoyable stone fruit aromas, as well as those of the white flower. Ok for the pairing.

Course #5: Organic Salmon confit, Pan-Seared foie gras, Salsify purée
Excellent fresh salmon with an impeccable pinky-ness to it, nicely cooked (sous-vidé), deep in flavor (10/10). Topping the salmon was a piece of foie gras that kept it’s  perfect enjoyable livery flavor, perfect <!– /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:””; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:”Times New Roman”; mso-fareast-font-family:”Times New Roman”;} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} –> bouncy seared surface and flawless meaty mouthsome (10/10). Salsify purée was tasty.  The piece of pork belly that you see on your right was proof that when put in the hands of a great Chef, that piece of meat never fails to be a wonderful thing. It was. Ironically, this is usually the type of dish that I am reluctant about, since most Chefs, as talented as they might have been, ended up offering it to me as a dull montage of food items rather than an harmonious juxtaposition of wonders that complement themselves. When you think about it, how harmonious and complementary can this sort of take on Surf (Salmon) & Turf (Foie Gras/Pork) be? Virtually unlikely. But here again the Genius of Chef Mercuri unleashes some outstanding magic: in a way that only my tastebuds could understand, the rich succulent eathiness of the foie was pure enlightment to the deep flavor of the Salmon, and this was mutual. The Pork Belly continued on that same trend: it shared outstanding kick and palatable amazement with the two others. There was in there an undeniable commitment to make flavors reaching newer dimensions of complexity (may it be the Foie, the Pork Belly or the Salmon…all three were oozing of an unusual work of deep, rich and tastebud-blowing flavors) and complement each other to perfection. He manages here to do the impossible: Another dish that goes to world’s best hall of fame. Excellent ++  10/10
Here is a close up picture of it:

Pairing wine: 2005 Beaune Clos du Roi, 1er Cru, Maison Rapet. A great red wine with aromas of white pepper +
black cherry, great tannins, with an enjoyable finish. Paired really well with the dish.

Course #6: Gaspor Pork, Sweet potato gnocchi, black garlic purée
That Gaspor pork is known for it’s high quality and it was stunningly well concocted on this one -> ideal tender mouthsome with it’s  enjoyable porky depth of flavor that was heavenly succulent. The sweet potato gnocchis were decadent. The black garlick purée was sublime. It’s not a dish for the glutony-hulky buddies of this world (Go to a fastfood joint for that! ), but an impeccable showcase of modern food item at it’s best. I would say of a level that’s anywhere between a 2* to 3* Michelin Star’s great meal. Exceptional! 10/10
Pairing wine: Brunello di Montalcino, 2004. Great red wine, nicely aged, with enjoyable deep aromatic flavors of black cherry , black olive, raspberry. Great pairing wine to that dish.

Course #7: Venison, cippolini –
The venison was impeccably rosy within, juicy, full-flavoured throughout, fork-tender and daringly tasty. The accompanied veggies were remarquable too: cippolini onions were nicely marinated and tasted great, oyster mushrooms were earthy and delish. 9/10.
Pairing wine: Las Rocas, Garnacha 2007. Excellent wine, with nice structure, balanced tannins, smooth texture and enjoyable aromas of Black cherry + Black raspberry. Paired well with the gamey-ness of the venison.

Course #8: Basmati rice jelly, Apple & Lavender broth, Melon Jelly, tangerine.
Genius work of the Basmati rice flavor here: not overwhelming, but in ideal subtility. It formed an enjoyable light, glutinous mass that was very refreshing and very pleasing in-mouth. Lots of great technical mastery here: balancing the flavor of the Basmati to ideal tastebud appreciation is of high mention. But this was not all: the precision of it’s sweet taste was remaquable: not overly sweet, not underly sweet but a well measured contained and yet very enjoyable sweetness. I might sound a bit too descriptive, but this translated  in practise into an outstanding exercise of great  mastery in taste and execution that is worthy of high mention. The broth (apple, lavender) added a welcoming light addition of acidity from the apple aromas (well thought, since it added sufficient kick to the lightness of the jelly) whereas the lavender subtle elegant flavor added an extra dimension of exotic freshness. The tangerine complemented ideally well the overall, with it’s lovely fragrance, not to forget the envouting freshness of the melon Jelly. Modern in it’s presentation and execution (cute little flowers, beautifully disposed fruits, technically contemporary in the way it is concocted), this dessert is an impressive work of passion, patience, intelligence (in balancing well that much complexity coming from so many ingredients) and inspiration. It was remarquably inventive, exotic and delicious. Very good. 8/10

Pairing wine: Jean-Luc Colombo, Muscat de Rivesaltes Les Saintes, 2003.

Full bodied, intense, fruity wine. That wine was a well thought choice on elevating the lightness of that delicious dessert.

Course #9: Ricotta mousse, Coriander Sorbet, Pomelo marmalade, Pecan foam cookie, Ivaory Sechuan peppercorn – The coriander sorbet, ideally frothy in texture, was stunning by it’s freshness and moving decadent rich taste. Pomelo marmalade was delicious, and the ricotta mousse was dense, airy, creamy and nicely done. This is a complex dessert that would actually move lots of   fans of inventive desserts. The sorbet was not the only coriander-flavored tastebud marvel in there -> there was couple of amazing tasty sweet coriander-flavored chips that were remarquable.
The wait staff informed me that they have now a Pastry Chef. Chef Mercuri was doing a nice job on that department, but it is a great idea that he leaves the dessert part to a specialist of such. Too bad I was a bit tired at that point and was not in the mood of finding out more about that Pastry Chef, but I would be interested to learn more about her since her desserts are daringly modern and inventive. 8/10

Pairing wine: Monde, Vin de glace 2008, Vignoble de la Rivière du Chêne – Great ice wine, enjoyably fruity with aromas of peach, lemon confit, pineapple and honey. Went well with the dessert.

Mignardises comprised of chic quality sweets, all memorable:

Concluded this fantastic dinner with an enjoyable Brazilian Coffee:

Overall, what a spectacular inventive and daring tastebud showcase of modern high end fine dining! In a world where some other Chefs around the world need to play with their little nitrogen tubes in order to elevate food to a trend, I will always admire those who dare elevating food for what it is: a joy for the tastebud! And Montreal is lucky: Chefs like Michelle Mercuri (XO Le Restaurant) or Normand Laprise (Toque!) cook some very beautiful high end modern food  that taste heavenly!

Service as usual was first class, very service-oriented, charming, attentive, focused.
You feel treated like a princess/prince (look around you and all acquaintances are receiving that same gracious service and remarquable magical sense of hospitality you wish to experience at ALL restaurants!) at this fine high end gourmet hot spot and the food is of world class mention.
Delay: Set your own delay, especially at such place where accomodation/flexibility is present. Talk to them and tell them how fast you want it to unfold. Timing is something purely personal and no one will agree on the perfect delays, so common sense: inform them of how in a hurry or not you are.

Chef Mercuri is not just ready for world’s big leagues, he is already there! Only reason he is not officially a 2* Michelin Star Chef is because Montreal has not got the same vibility of cities like Tokyo, Paris.  Had Chef Mercuri evolved in those cities, that would have been a done deal. With Chefs like Normand Laprise (Toque!), Pelletier (Club Chasse & Peche), Navarrette (Raza), Rouyé (La Porte) and many more, I strongly believe that the next big surprises of World’s high end gourmet could come from here. Tonight, Chef Mercuri had not only proven that he is one of Mtl’s top best Chefs but that the world, too, is easily at it’s reach.

This tasting menu was daringly exceptional, and has actually reached the ultimate top Marks of my 2009-2010 Top 15 best dinners in Montreal & Surroundings, surpassing the exceptional fine dining  dinner I had at Toque!. Which is quite an exceptional accomplishment.

PROS: this was of a level of a 3 star Michelin meal!

CONS: Nothing to complain about

XO Le Restaurant: Take Two

UPDATE- MAY 2013  CHEF MICHELE MERCURI  IS NOT WORKING THERE ANYMORE. THIS POST IS THEREFORE KEPT ONLINE SOLELY FOR   HISTORICAL PURPOSE 

 

Event: Dinner at XO Le Restaurant

Type of food: Upscale Fine dining (Modern European)
Date and time: Friday March 19th, 2010  6:00PM
Location: 355 St Jacques, Ouest. Montreal, QC
Arome’s New Ranking of XO: #1 (Categ Upscale Fine Dining)
Arome’s Mention of this latest dinner: Excellent++
Read: My review of the 1st dinner there on Friday Oct 9th, 2009  8PM
URL: http://www.hotellestjames.com/the-life/dining/the-restaurant.asp

Food rating: Exceptional (10), Excellent (9), Very good (8), Good (7), just Ok (6)

(English review will follow below) – Présentement, à Montréal, c’est ce qui se rapproche le plus du calibre d’un 3 étoile Michelin à tous les égards (service, décor, expérience gastronomique, etc). Ici, on est vraiment dans le calibre Intl des 2 à 3 étoiles Michelin. Tant que le Chef Michelle Mercuri exposera son immense talent tel que j’en ai vécu l’expérience lors (surtout) de mon dernier repas au XO Le Restaurant, cette grande table sera toujours un 3 Michelin ‘officieux’ (puisqu’il n’ y a pas de resto Michelin à Mtl) à mes yeux.  Allez y un Jeu/Vendr/Samedi soir, gardez l’esprit ouvert, et laissez le Chef Mercuri vaguer à sa créativité.

This is only my second dinner at XO Le Restaurant (restaurant of Montreal’s Hotel St-James in the Vieux Port of Montreal). Last time I was at this fine dining gourmet hot spot (ref: click here for a report of my previous dinner there ), what I’ve experienced was an overall dining experience that did set the bar for all Montreal restaurants: a stunning world-class dinner with an easily 2 Michelin star level food item (the Free Form Lasagna that I had on that dinner was perhaps the most memorable food item I ever enjoyed on any upscale fine dining table in Montreal & Surroundings), world class service (orchestrated by my personal choice for best waitress in 2009, Sidonie), luxurious decor and ambiance. But I felt bad because such upscale table is one that I should have more accurately reviewed through an epic gastronomic journey, the tasting menu! 5 Months later, here I am back: I learn that Sidonie is not on duty this time (a bit of a heartbreak for me since she was one kind of exceptional great  waitress you seldomly get to meet. In my personal opinion, Sidonie is –along Christiane Lamarche at Toque! and Christina Garcia at Osco!  among the very top best professionals of the restaurant scene in Montreal) but I should not worry since top service is their trademark.

This time, I can free myself from the photo session part of the restaurant’s interior settings: already done on the 1st report  but I still brought my camera for visual accompaniment to my multiple couse tasting menu of the evening.

The Dinner of this evening: 9 course tasting menu ($135) + wine pairing ($80)
PS: You have many other options of tasting menus at various prices (3 course, 6 course If I recall properly and 9).

Started with a nice cocktail of lemon pétillant (their cocktails are expertly concocted, so this one was naturally a hit):

Went on with the 1st dish:

Course #1: Oyster in Soya jelly, Cucumber emulsion & Saké
The dominant  fresh enjoyable flavor of the cucumber emulsion came through nicely on this course. That foamy emulsion was remarquably airy, refreshing and was topping a visually appealing dice of Soya gelé in which was inserted a meaty piece of delicious fresh oyster. At the bottom, couple of thinly minced morsels of beets that were fresh and tasty. Neither my pictures nor my description will manage to give justice to this world class food item: It was technically very modern and skillfully concocter both in terms of presentation and execution. One course of a level that I wished I could see more oftently on this world’s best tables: daring, complex, unique in all aspects. Chef Michelle Mercuri — and that is actually not a secret —- walks on the same tracks as any of our great 2* Michelin Chefs out there and the perfection of that little tastebud marvel is largely one proof among many others of how highly skilled he stands. Excellent++  10/10
This was paired with a Bruno Paillard Champagne, 1ere Cuvée. It was exceptionally aged (30 Months) in barrel. Nice body, great structure, with an enjoyable taste of brioche bread. Elegant and classic as I love my Champagnes. Paired well with the Oyster course.

Course #2: Fresh Florida Shrimp, Razor clam, Compressed melon, Jicama, Pomegranate lemon grass granita, Ginger Yogurt Spuma – This was served in a  Caviar metal container, that was itself disposed on crushed ice, in order to preserve the freshness of the course.

In the container, several concoctions:

first, the citrus granita was a Hit: decadent, delicious! Then the emulsion of yogurt: extremely tasty and of impeccable freshness.I liked the inspirational touches found on this food item: for example, some discrete pieces of thinly cuted delicious fresh radish paired with the yogurt turned out to be perfect tastebud wonders.The chunks of shrimp were nicely boiled and kept a perfect depth of flavor. This is a course that reminds us of how seafood and sweetness can be a fun exciting refreshing mix. The seeds of pomegranate added enjoyable crunchy-ness. So playful, exotic and interesting, although in full constructive honesty, I would change two things here (to be taken constructively):
(1) I would work the shrimp differently. Perhaps lightly frying/pan-searing it, just to elevate the textural robustness of  the shrimp. It would also be interesting to see, on most Montreal tables,  more of the black tiger sort of shrimps (whether it is or not a luxurious product is not the question. It is it’s taste that interests me) . I am being picky here, I know, but if you take this to that level of textural level, I am confident that it’s an extra that will please to all. Of course, the presentation would have then to be rethought (pan-seared shrimp would then requirre warmer accompaniments too). So, come to think about it,  this is a matter of pure personal preference: that shrimp was of the highest quality and tasty / and this is not a complaint at all!
(2) A re-adjustment of the conceptual presentation of it all: perhaps skipping the pieces of fresh lettuces + laying all the rest separately in somekind of visually artistical ways (I ‘d steal couple of tricks from the Japanese food visuals here). With that said, do not fool yourself: Chef Michelle Mercuri cooks extremely beautiful food, as you will quickly realize from all the next food items. Good. 7/10
Pairing wine: Ostertag 2008, from Alsace. Exotic and Fruity, medium bodied white wine.  Just ok for me.

Course #3: Charlevoix veal tartare, poached calamari, pumpkin seeds, Chorizo smoked mackerel, veal tongue:
Impeccable freshness of the veal, a fantastic tartare, exceptionally tasty with skillfully balanced flavors: not one hint of overpowering flavors, evenly spiced. The poached calamari was flawless, same could be said of the Chrorizo smoked mackerel and  decadent veal tongue. Of modern visual presentation, this is the type of daring food Item I expect on a great 3* Michelin star table. The kind of marvel that reminds us of how greatness can be found in a plate and you just can’t describe it. You’ve just got to taste it, enjoy and feel fortunate that you were blessed by such. Genius on a plate. One notch above Excellent: Exceptional! 10/10
Here’s a flashless picture of that wonder, offering it to you through a different angle and visuals:

Pairing wine: A 2006 Clos Jordanne. An ok Chardonnay’s white wine (to me), dense, with a classic structure.I prefer wines with more depth.

Course #4: Guinea-hen, Morels, Black Truffles
Excellent fresh tasty black truffles (came from Italy’s region of Alba). Amazing earthy taste and flavors and as with all previous dishes: very well balanced/harmonious. The meatiness of the fowl and it’s excepional depth of flavor were remarquable. What’s even more remarquable about this dish is how classic flavors were brought up in a daring/re-juvenating way. Excellent, not only for it’s exceptional daring amazing tasty-ness but also for it’s inspired touches: the fowl’s meat was stuffed in delicious raviolis, meaty and daringly superior in terms of deliciousness. The intense jus beneath was rich and exceptionally tempting. The crunchy fresh green beans were pure genius add-ons to that dish and the fresh chunks of parmigiano cheese were pure tastebud wonders. This course pertains to World’s top meal courses, there is no doubt about that. Wowed! 10/10
Pairing wine: Clos Jordanne, Le grand Clos, 2006. This one fared better to my tastebuds than the previous. It’s also a Chardonnay. Nice minerality, nice structure and I sensed the expected enjoyable stone fruit aromas, as well as those of the white flower. Ok for the pairing.

Course #5: Organic Salmon confit, Pan-Seared foie gras, Salsify purée
Excellent fresh salmon with an impeccable pinky-ness to it, nicely cooked (sous-vidé), deep in flavor (10/10). Topping the salmon was a piece of foie gras that kept it’s  perfect enjoyable livery flavor, perfect <!– /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:””; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:”Times New Roman”; mso-fareast-font-family:”Times New Roman”;} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} –> bouncy seared surface and flawless meaty mouthsome (10/10). Salsify purée was tasty.  The piece of pork belly that you see on your right was proof that when put in the hands of a great Chef, that piece of meat never fails to be a wonderful thing. It was. Ironically, this is usually the type of dish that I am reluctant about, since most Chefs, as talented as they might have been, ended up offering it to me as a dull montage of food items rather than an harmonious juxtaposition of wonders that complement themselves. When you think about it, how harmonious and complementary can this sort of take on Surf (Salmon) & Turf (Foie Gras/Pork) be? Virtually unlikely. But here again the Genius of Chef Mercuri unleashes some outstanding magic: in a way that only my tastebuds could understand, the rich succulent eathiness of the foie was pure enlightment to the deep flavor of the Salmon, and this was mutual. The Pork Belly continued on that same trend: it shared outstanding kick and palatable amazement with the two others. There was in there an undeniable commitment to make flavors reaching newer dimensions of complexity (may it be the Foie, the Pork Belly or the Salmon…all three were oozing of an unusual work of deep, rich and tastebud-blowing flavors) and complement each other to perfection. He manages here to do the impossible: Another dish that goes to world’s best hall of fame. Excellent ++  10/10
Here is a close up picture of it:

Pairing wine: 2005 Beaune Clos du Roi, 1er Cru, Maison Rapet. A great red wine with aromas of white pepper +
black cherry, great tannins, with an enjoyable finish. Paired really well with the dish.

Course #6: Gaspor Pork, Sweet potato gnocchi, black garlic purée
That Gaspor pork is known for it’s high quality and it was stunningly well concocted on this one -> ideal tender mouthsome with it’s  enjoyable porky depth of flavor that was heavenly succulent. The sweet potato gnocchis were decadent. The black garlick purée was sublime. It’s not a dish for the glutony-hulky buddies of this world (Go to a fastfood joint for that! ), but an impeccable showcase of modern food item at it’s best. I would say of a level that’s anywhere between a 2* to 3* Michelin Star’s great meal. Exceptional! 10/10
Pairing wine: Brunello di Montalcino, 2004. Great red wine, nicely aged, with enjoyable deep aromatic flavors of black cherry , black olive, raspberry. Great pairing wine to that dish.

Course #7: Venison, cippolini –
The venison was impeccably rosy within, juicy, full-flavoured throughout, fork-tender and daringly tasty. The accompanied veggies were remarquable too: cippolini onions were nicely marinated and tasted great, oyster mushrooms were earthy and delish. 9/10.
Pairing wine: Las Rocas, Garnacha 2007. Excellent wine, with nice structure, balanced tannins, smooth texture and enjoyable aromas of Black cherry + Black raspberry. Paired well with the gamey-ness of the venison.

Course #8: Basmati rice jelly, Apple & Lavender broth, Melon Jelly, tangerine.
Genius work of the Basmati rice flavor here: not overwhelming, but in ideal subtility. It formed an enjoyable light, glutinous mass that was very refreshing and very pleasing in-mouth. Lots of great technical mastery here: balancing the flavor of the Basmati to ideal tastebud appreciation is of high mention. But this was not all: the precision of it’s sweet taste was remaquable: not overly sweet, not underly sweet but a well measured contained and yet very enjoyable sweetness. I might sound a bit too descriptive, but this translated  in practise into an outstanding exercise of great  mastery in taste and execution that is worthy of high mention. The broth (apple, lavender) added a welcoming light addition of acidity from the apple aromas (well thought, since it added sufficient kick to the lightness of the jelly) whereas the lavender subtle elegant flavor added an extra dimension of exotic freshness. The tangerine complemented ideally well the overall, with it’s lovely fragrance, not to forget the envouting freshness of the melon Jelly. Modern in it’s presentation and execution (cute little flowers, beautifully disposed fruits, technically contemporary in the way it is concocted), this dessert is an impressive work of passion, patience, intelligence (in balancing well that much complexity coming from so many ingredients) and inspiration. It was remarquably inventive, exotic and delicious. Very good. 8/10

Pairing wine: Jean-Luc Colombo, Muscat de Rivesaltes Les Saintes, 2003.

Full bodied, intense, fruity wine. That wine was a well thought choice on elevating the lightness of that delicious dessert.

Course #9: Ricotta mousse, Coriander Sorbet, Pomelo marmalade, Pecan foam cookie, Ivaory Sechuan peppercorn – The coriander sorbet, ideally frothy in texture, was stunning by it’s freshness and moving decadent rich taste. Pomelo marmalade was delicious, and the ricotta mousse was dense, airy, creamy and nicely done. This is a complex dessert that would actually move lots of   fans of inventive desserts. The sorbet was not the only coriander-flavored tastebud marvel in there -> there was couple of amazing tasty sweet coriander-flavored chips that were remarquable.
The wait staff informed me that they have now a Pastry Chef. Chef Mercuri was doing a nice job on that department, but it is a great idea that he leaves the dessert part to a specialist of such. Too bad I was a bit tired at that point and was not in the mood of finding out more about that Pastry Chef, but I would be interested to learn more about her since her desserts are daringly modern and inventive. 8/10

Pairing wine: Monde, Vin de glace 2008, Vignoble de la Rivière du Chêne – Great ice wine, enjoyably fruity with aromas of peach, lemon confit, pineapple and honey. Went well with the dessert.

Mignardises comprised of chic quality sweets, all memorable:

Concluded this fantastic dinner with an enjoyable Brazilian Coffee:

Overall, what a spectacular inventive and daring tastebud showcase of modern high end fine dining! In a world where some other Chefs around the world need to play with their little nitrogen tubes in order to elevate food to a trend, I will always admire those who dare elevating food for what it is: a joy for the tastebud! And Montreal is lucky: Chefs like Michelle Mercuri (XO Le Restaurant) or Normand Laprise (Toque!) cook some very beautiful high end modern food  that taste heavenly!

Service as usual was first class, very service-oriented, charming, attentive, focused.
You feel treated like a princess/prince (look around you and all acquaintances are receiving that same gracious service and remarquable magical sense of hospitality you wish to experience at ALL restaurants!) at this fine high end gourmet hot spot and the food is of world class mention.
Delay: Set your own delay, especially at such place where accomodation/flexibility is present. Talk to them and tell them how fast you want it to unfold. Timing is something purely personal and no one will agree on the perfect delays, so common sense: inform them of how in a hurry or not you are.

Chef Mercuri is not just ready for world’s big leagues, he is already there! Only reason he is not officially a 2* Michelin Star Chef is because Montreal has not got the same vibility of cities like Tokyo, Paris.  Had Chef Mercuri evolved in those cities, that would have been a done deal. With Chefs like Normand Laprise (Toque!), Pelletier (Club Chasse & Peche), Navarrette (Raza), Rouyé (La Porte) and many more, I strongly believe that the next big surprises of World’s high end gourmet could come from here. Tonight, Chef Mercuri had not only proven that he is one of Mtl’s top best Chefs but that the world, too, is easily at it’s reach.

This tasting menu was daringly exceptional, and has actually reached the ultimate top Marks of my 2009-2010 Top 15 best dinners in Montreal & Surroundings, surpassing the exceptional fine dining  dinner I had at Toque!. Which is quite an exceptional accomplishment.

PROS: this was of a level of a 3 star Michelin meal!

CONS: Nothing to complain about